JTP56AV2AA General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

remove the screws, replaced the element, replaced the screws.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

The first task is to turn off the breaker so there is no power coming to the oven. I learned in the hard way that even though the oven is turned off, there is still a hot wire connected to the bake element. Next,I removed the oven door and shelves. Then I used a nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the element in place. I expected to find a plug, however the element is connected to two wires buried in the insulation. I pulled the wires off of the bake element, connected them to the new element and put everything back together. This is not a difficult task.

First I unplugged unit. Theni removed the two screws that hold the element in place . Then went to pull the element out to disconnect the two wires,but was having alittle trouble. There for I removed the large plate(cover) on the back of range,and removed the wires from this location. Put the new element in place,reattached wires,screwed back plate back on ,and pluged back in.

Replaced it

I ordered the correct oven rack thru Part Select's customer service. They helped me get the correct part info. Once it came I slid it in the oven and viola it was a perfect fit!

plug in thermistor when needed

just slipped it in

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

nothing to it.

The whole process was very easy! I just got the model number and bought a new rack and silverware holder on,one. There was no assembly needed so I just popped them in and replaced the old ones! Very easy to do!

Ordered new probe

1. shut power off (if it is a built in you will have to go to the house control panel to shut the power off). To ensure that it is off check the clock light prior and after you throw the switch it now should be off. 2. remove screws holding ovens in cabinet should be 8 (Phillips)on the sides of the ovens inside, you have to have to have the doors open to remove 4 top and 4 bottom 3. slide ovens out of cabinet about 4 to 6 inches (do not pull on doors) open the bottom door reach inside of oven and slide to the left and the right while gently lifting. 4. close the bottom door and open the top door. above the door and below the control panel you should see at least 3 screws I removed them with a socket and ratchet, but you can use a wrench or adjustable wrench. 5. on top of the panel you should see two screws (Phillips) on one on each side. remove the screws. 6. The control panel has a small tab in the middle of it, you will now be able to lift the cover that the tab is slid into (tin this is the top of the oven) while you hold the tin cover up about 1/4 inch hold on to the panel tipping the bottom out this should release the tab and allow you to pull the control panel out. Now close the top door and the panel should rest on the handle of the door. 7. looking into the top of oven you should see two limit switches (they are round with two screws holding them down with two wires that slide on the tabs) One of these in my case the one on the right runs the fan while the one in the center runs the door lock. To determine if the switch is faulty remove one of the wires from one of the limit switches and either tape or use a clamp or even a paper clip so the wires on the same limit switch will be touching. 8. now carefully put the control panel back tipping the bottom out to insert the tab in the top cover and put in one of the screws to hold it in place. 9. turn on the power check to see if the door lock is working correctly and the door lock light is out. If it is not working and you hear the fan running then you have jumped the wrong switch. If this is the case shut the power off then return the wire back on the jumped switch and repeat the process with the other limit switch. 10. after you jumped the correct switch the door lock light is off. Check the system with the power on by putting the oven in the self cleaning cycle. The door lock light should start to flash and after the door locks it will stay on steady. Press the stop or off button the door lock light will begin to flash and when the lock is released the door lock light should go out. If the door has been pulled on or forced open the locking device can strip and will only go so far with out locking the door. You will then have to remove the locking device with the motor and replace the motor. With the switch jumped and everything is working then this is the problem shut the power off and replace the switch. Caution there are two limit switches in the bottom oven also one with a reset that is about $50 it is bigger and will not bolt down. The one that is in mine is smaller and cost about $23 make sure that you order the correct one shown in the diagram provided by Parts select. 11. reinstall the control panel should be 3 screws on the bottom and 2 on the top. Open the top oven door and carefully slide the oven back in place pushing on the sides do not push on the oven door. Attach the cabinet screws 8 turn on the power.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.