JRS04BW3BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Repair was very easy-make sure you shut the electricity off at the breaker box-having the oven control off does not kill the electricty to the element . Removed the screws, pull out the element, disconnected two wires, re-attach to the new element, install the screws.

Very easy fix. After removing the six screws that held the door together, it was a cinch to replace the end caps and put the door back together. Works just like new!!

It was easy except that I had to make just a small modification to the electrical connection (holes were to small). . . . Other than that, its was a breeze to install.

Removed door from unit, removed two screws on the insideof the door and open door in two, (inside and outside), removed two screws from each door handle end, replaced with new ones and Bingo !!!

I shut off the power at the circuit breaker. I loosened the screws securing the baking element to the back wall. I then pulled out the baking element toward me and found the wire leads bolted using self-tapping screws to the original element. Since the holes on the mounting tabs did not take the old screws, I had to drill out the holes on the tabs of the replacement element. After securely bolting the leads to either terminal on the element, I had to drill two holes on the back wall for the mounting plate of the new element. Then I used the cordless drill with the Philips bit to drive in stainless steel self-tapping screws (not zip screws) to secure the element to the back wall. I turned on the power at the circuit breaker and reset the clock (mechanical).

Needed to drill two new holes for fastening the element to the oven wall. Change in design. Enlarged the holes in the spade connections since I was unable to find smaller bolts than 4-40.
I would suggest to make the holes in the spade connections larger.
The change out was not a problem.

removed and replaced

The reason the brackets didn't go on to the handle far enough was there was a molding defect inside one of the brackets. After alot of scraping at the inside of the bracket and lightly tapping with a soft hammer I was able to get the defective bracket on so that the holes lined up to the mounting plate. As for the extra nipples I had two options. Either cut the nipples off or drill some holes in the metal plate that the brackets attach to. I chose the latter. I had to attach the brackets to the plate with extra long screws, reach in under the bracket with a scribe and mark the nipple location on the plate. Then I removed the handle and drilled two holes for each bracket. After some minor adjustments to the holes I was able to attach both brackets and reassemble the oven door.

removed the broken parts and screwed on the new parts.

Very detailed repair instructions on internet made installation of new end caps a job not needing a professioal.

repair was easy and the video was very good. My only problem, I had to go buy a tool, I did not have a nut driver.

Pull door from oven and place on flat work surface. Remove bottom screws then the top screws and separate the two halves of the door . Remove broken door handles and replace reassemble door and place back on oven. The hardest thing was to clean the grease out of the inside of the door and get the glass clean to reassemble the door.

Removed door from oven. Removed all side screws and pulled front assembly from door. Discarded old screws and broken plastic pieces. Put old handle in new end caps and lined them up with screw entry holes. It took 2 people to hold the door up while pressing in the screws to enter the new plastic receivers on the end caps. A pretty easy fix.

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Remove control panel: Made a layout of the wire colors and IDs. The new panel was sighly different. Had additional conponent which I ignored because it did not match the wires or IDs I had recorded. The only wire that I did not connect was the ground (Green wire) The place for it on the new board was crossed out. After I placed the wires where it should go on the new board and turned back on the power. I tested all the functions and they all worked the firsy time. I was very happy with the results. What I think they should provide with the new panel was a conponet layout of the new board.