FGB557CESF Frigidaire Wall Oven - Instructions

took off bottom pan in oven and replaced ignitor

i followed some of the tips provided, and added a few of my own. unplug stove from electric outlet. open oven door, remove wire trays. remove the two flathead screws, holding down the oven pan, it should slide out easily. remove oven burner(looks like wings)only one nut holding it in place with 1/4"nutdriver. remove igniter, 2 nuts as well with 1/4" nutdriver. cut wires, leave a good length, and strip(2 wires). install new igniter, strip the 2 wires as well, trim to size, and with the two wire caps provided, make wire connections. tuck any excess length of wires away from igniter. re-install all parts the were orginally removed. plug oven back into outlet. turn on oven, and presto, oven worked good as new. saved a couple of hundred dollars doing the repair myself

I googled most of the problem I was having. When I would turn on the oven I would have the orange glow from the igniter but I would never get heat. I ordered the part off this website...it arrived the very next day!!! 7 months pregnant I fixed the problem!!! My oven works beautifuly!! Just in time for the holidays! I saved so so much money doing it myself. U to can do it, good luck!!

after reading other replies i was 100 percent sure that my igniter was the problem . just as others said it had a veryh dem glow . once i changed it the oven lit in about 5 seconds .very easy to install and saved at lease $ 400 on not needing a new stove. thanks parts select . com

From the front I cut the wires going to the old igniter and removed it. Then I stripped insulation back 3/8 of an inch. Using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter, I connected the new wires to the existing. Then I installed the new igniter and the job was done. I turned on the thermostat and the oven ignited quicker than it had for some time.

followed posted repair procedure on Parts select site. . . straight forward and simple. . .

Checked voltage supply to oven igniter, had 120 v
to oven igniter, but igniter was not glowing.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

The oven igniter was working, the Sears repairman said by the phone the igniter was probley weak and not geting hot enough. Remove door ( 4 screws) Remove oven pan (4 Screws) remove burner sheld. remove lighter and cut wires. Install new. Remove storage drawer and splice new wires to the old at the back.

A friend replaced the new ignitor with the old one...very simple job.

I would like to comment on how fast the service was from when I ordered the part online to 3 business days later when the part arrived....very happy about how easy it was to order part and that the part was in stock and delivered so quickly. Thank you very much !! I will recommend Part Select to a friend that frequently orders parts.

Unplug appliance. Remove the bottom of the oven (2 screws in back of oven bottom), remove burner cover (2 screws in front and nut in center holding burner). Pull out the bottom storage drawer under the oven and unplug both wires from oven Igniter which are located in the back. One wire plugs into the gas valve and the second wire went into a connector that was on the lower left. I removed the screw on the back oven wall that held the burner so I could remove the burner for ease of work. Remove two screws holding the old igniter. The two screws holding the igniter to the side of the burner were stripped and they took a little time to remove but I replaced them with two new screws I had in my misc. screw drawer and had no issue. Cut the top wire and splice it onto the top wire of the new igniter using the porcelain wire nuts provided. Do the same with the bottom wire. Re-assemble and plug back in. Everything worked perfectly.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.