TU8000XRP0 Whirlpool Trash Compactor - Instructions

The part that doews the actual compacting would not move correctly. The machine would not stop because the part never contacted the spring loaded switch. I had known about this for about a year, but put it off until it stopped working altogether. I ordered 2 power nuts and rec'd them in B.F.E. Alaska in about 5 days. I quickly replaced the parts and the machine works like brand new again. I estimate this compactor to be at least 10 -15 years old and replacing the occassional part once in awhile is a lot cheaper than buying a new compactor.

remove drawer remove two phillip screws lift off front panel remove wiring and plug into new switch.slide switch through the hole in panel install nut reinstall panel screws and drawer job done.

Had to first raise the screw plate that compacts the garbage. Then had to turn the compactor over and remove screws holding the bottom plate on in order to get to the gears. Once that was done I removed the worn gears and the chain drive and replaced with the new gears and the chain. Put the unit back together and works like a new one. A $35 dollar fix for a unit that sells for around $900 today. Thanks to partslect for being able to help me with the parts needed. Not only did I save on a new unit but by doing this myself I saved around $100 in labor charges.

replaced the large gear and put it back together.

Took out old gears replaced with new very easy with your dirictions.

refloored the floor and so the unit would not come out. had to cut tile, broke edge off of formica counter but once the unit was out a piece of cake. 6 self tapping screws removed , right on the top, two screws holding the cover for the power nuts, replaced broken nut, leveled ram, replaced nuts and ready to slide back in. After thought, I had one nut on hand from a few years earlier. I ordered two new nuts and now i am going to pull the unit again and replace both nuts. thought being a longer period before having to do this again. The unit was put in in 1981 and used continuously.

Same problem as described previously on this site. Pulled unit out and replaced the gear as described. Thanks for the info - would have been tough with out it.

Pull unit from under counter (Held in place with 2 screws) Use nut driver to remove top and front panel. (I didn't remove the control panel from the front panel which probably made access more difficult) Locate the directional switch near the top of the unit and remove two screws, being careful not to lose a small metal plate into which the screws thread (similar to a Tinneman nut). I moved the wires one at a time from the old switch to the new as I am color blind and have trouble with wire colors. Fit the new switch in place, being sure the switch lever is positioned against the metal tab that operates it. Screw the switch in place and then reassemble the compactor.

Very simple, changed the gear, adjusted the drive and tested. Very straight forward.

I read the Parts Select trouble shooting guide which indicated that 99% of the time the problem was with the Directional Switch so I ordered one. I pulled the unit out from under the countertop, unplugged the electrical plug from the outlet and took the trash tray out of the unit and set it aside. I took the top panel off with the nutdriver as well as the front panel along with the handle of the power switch. Better access to the Directional Switch can be made by removing the compacting unit. This can be done by sliding it up out of appliance and setting it aside. I used a phillips screw driver to unscrew the two screws on the right side of the switch and the two thin compression plates on the left side which hold the switch in place. I then carefully removed the contact wires from the Directional Switch one at a time and placed them on the new switch in the proper locations. The switch can then be reinstalled with the screws and compression plates. The compacting unit can then be loaded back into the appliance with the activating bracket to the front, BUT be very careful that the arm on the Directional Switch is out of the way when it is slid back into place and be sure that the bracket that activates the Directional Switch is facing the switch in order to send the message to the On/Off Switch to stop the motor when the cycle is completed. The bracket on the front of the compacting unit will force the thin arm on the back of the switch to activate a relay button that is supposed to tell the Rotary switch to shut off the motor and stop the cycle. The front panel and the top panel can then be reinstalled. I checked to see if it solved the problem before putting it back under the countertop. I had to tape the black cutoff switche on the front and on the inside of the container compartment to accomplish this. I then plugged it in and turned the Off/On switch. The unit cycled down and back up but did not shut off and the same noise came from one side at the bottom of the unit. I unplugged the unit and turned it on it's side and removed the bottom plate to inspect the gears and drive chain belt. All the gears and the drive belt were in good condition. So that was not the problem either. That left the Rotary Switch to be the faulty part. I then had to order the Rotary Switch Kit and wait for it to arrive which it did in a short period of time. The old switch was removed by pulling off the handle then using needle nosed pliers to loosen the ring nut that holds the switch in place. This released the old Rotary Switch from the front frame. A flat head screw driver was used to release the wires from the terminals on the switch and place them on the new switch. As per the instructions with the switch kit, the hole for the threaded end of the switch to fit through the hole in the front plate needed to be enlarged. The instructions tell you to use a 9/16 inch drill to carefully enlarge the hole size. Since I did not have that size drill bit, I used a small rat tail file to enlarge the hole. I placed the threaded end of the switch through the hole in the front plate and tried to screw the ring nut back on to the threaded end of the switch. The threads did not pass far enough through the front plate to allow the ring nut to thread and hold the switch in place. I found that there were two plastic ridges on the back side of the front plate that did not allow the threaded end of the switch to fit far enough through the hole to attach the ring nut. I then had to take the front plate off and used a chizel and hammer to carefully chip off the ridges so the theads would fit through the plate and allow installaton of the ring nut. The wires could then be placed on the Rotary Switch, ring nut installed and tightened, the front panel replaced and the top plate reinstalled and the unit tested. This time it worked and the trash compactor was plugged in and shoved back in place under the counter top. Now for the rest of the sto

First off....I was surprised at how inexpensive the drive gear kit was. As others commented, they fit perfectly and I believe will fit other manufacturer's models since there is a lot of cross branding. The Drive gear replacement itself would be easy as described by others so I won't repeat that. However replacing the plastic tubular "ram stops" on the screw drive was a challenge since there are no "helpful hints" in the blog. To do that you have to work from the top and sides. Needed to remove the two gear cams where the screw drives are seated on the bottom of the unit, then (working with the unit on it's side)you have to raise the whole (heavy) plunger that is attached to the drive screws high enough to remove the old tubular ram stops and bushing and replace. To raise the plunger assembly out from the top you have to remove the sheet metal top plate of the unit....and....importantly remove the control panel on the front where the switches are. There is a limiter switch that has a metal arm which engages a plate on the plunger to stop the unit when it reaches the top. You need to remove that switch to be able to raise the plunger assembly high enough to get the new parts on the screw drive. Put all that back together and then go on to the gear replacement as described by others which was straight forward. Very messy job with all the grease and garbage residue. I am pretty handy figuring these things out, and there may be an easier way, but next time I will call a pro or replace the whole compactor.

Followed PartsSelect instructions, the Compactor was appoximately $1000. when I purchased it. The kit was $26.14. I will forever be a customer of this company. Thank you, Brian

Used visuals from partselect web site to dismantle the trash compactor , remove broken power nut , order new nuts. Only took a few days to receive new nuts. Replaced nuts , put back together and now works fine.

Laid appliance on side - removed top sheet metal cover and bottom sheet metal cover. Broken delrin ring gear was on bottom of bottom cover (housing). Gear had broken off of its hub, which also was the sprocket chain drive for both acme screws driving the compactor platten. Motor had to be loosened so that the chain could be removed from the old sprocket hub, and the new delrin ring gear - with new sprocket hub attached - could be mounted on its fixed spindle. With new delrin gear/chain sprocket mounted, the motor had to be spaced and tightened to allow 0.010 inch lash between the gears. The only instructions included with the new gear was how to do this - by placing a piece of paper in between the pinion gear on the motor, and the new ring gear, and then tightening the motor into place. This was done, the sheet metal covers were re-installed, and the compactor works just fine. There is a design flaw in the original (KitchenAid) engineering of the gear, however, and I expect that in the next four years this will probably happen again.

Ordered three parts, however if I had read your repair page more thoroughly I could have avoided buying the top of cycle off switch. Oh well... This thirty year old trash compactor is back in business running like a new one. My one recommendation? READ YOUR FAQ PAGE. It will save you money.dan