6657466101 Kenmore Trash Compactor - Instructions

Trash compactor started making "bumping" sounds when the RAM went through a cycle and tried to come back up. Finally, one day heard a "pop" went the RAM traveled to the bottom. The gear broke in half. Purchased the gear parts "KIT" online and repair took 15 minutes. Easy to do. Unfortunately, this was not only problem. The "cause" of the gear breaking was the Momentary Start/Stop Switch was bad. It's failure led to the main switch not working. The unit could not tell when the RAM had reached the top of it's cycle. The other problem was that I didn't put trash in the compactor. Suggest HIGHLY to never operate the unit's RAM mechanism without the compactor being at least 1/2 full per the instruction manual. Running it empty can cause a major problem, such as the gear breaking/stripping.

Moved the compactor out from under cabinet, laid it on it's side, removed bottom casing (two nuts front, three back), remove compression pin from small drive gear shart, replace new small drive gear and install compression pin, loosen motor mounts to allow large gear replacement, remove circlip holding large drive gear to shaft, remove and repace damaged gear, set gear clearance and tighten motor mounts, grease gears, replace bottom casing. .

Replaced the gear and unit worked execpt the plunger hit the side of the garbage container. This appears the be the reason the gear broke in the first place. Defective assembly from the factory.

To correct I had to remove the newly installed gear system remove inside cardboard side cover, Remove the screws that hold the bearing for the lift screw so I could remove the chain. After removing the chain I could adjust the plunger to be level and not hit the side of the garbage container on its way down.

Took the under housing off to see the drive gear. It had broken in half. (Exactly like one of the suggestions said). Replaced the drive gear and re-assembled. It worked great!

Thanks.

First i removed 2 screws that holds it to the cabinet,pulled the unit out removed the cover off the bottom of the unit,then i notice the gears were damaged,but was not supprised,because the machine gets over worked.Then i removed one clip,removed one gear,the other gear had a pin,tapped the pin out with a punch ,pulled that gear off.then replaced both gears .Got it back together and it now works like new.i am very pleased with your service,you responded right away and let me know the order had filled.i ordered it on sunday night and i recieved it on tuesday morning .i will surly use your service in the future you guys are great. thanks alot

The plastic drive gear broke and the unit was locked in the down position. The repair kit contained all of the parts required to fix the problem plus other replacement parts for the gear drive unit. It was very easy (about 20 min.) to replace the gear and other parts. The unit works fine now.

Unplugged trash compactor and removed from undercounter. Took cover off and removed broken plastic gear. Replaced with new gear and put cover back on

Simply removed the two plastic gears (held on by some sort of clip), put the new gears in place using the spacing instructions that were provided in the kit ....... and it is working!

Unscrew the bottom, pull out the chain, replace the gear.

I ORDERDED THE SELECTOR SWITCH WHICH SITS BEHIND THE TOUCH PANEL THAT SAYS ON/OFF/START.i REMOVED THE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS JUST BELOW THE DISPLAY.SLIDE THE WHOLE DISPLAY UP AND IT WILL EXPOSE 3 WIRES AND THE SWITCH.REMOVE THE TWO PHILLIPS SCREWS,REMOVE THE CLEARLY MARKED Y=YELLOW R=RED AND V=VIOLET .INSTALL THE WIRES MOUNT THE SWITCH REPLACE THE TWO SCREWS REINSTALL THE PANEL,HIT START AND GOOD TO GO!

Replacement handle fit perfectly, removed the old one by taking out two screws. I was glad that the part was still available, although a little pricey, because the unit has to be at least 25-30 years old or more.

Like others who experienced this problem, I removed compactor from under the counter and laid it on its side. I removed the screws holding the cover plates to the motor and gear/chain box. The larger (4" +/-) plastic drive gear which moves the chain that lowers or raises the compactor ram was broke. Using a socket and ratchet, I turned the shaft the gear was attached to in a counterclockwise direction and moved the compacting ram from the bottom position to the top so I could finally open the door, It takes a lot of turns to move the compacting ram to the top so be patient. I then loosened the bolts, in the base, that holds the motor secure and slid the base toward the broken gear putting slack in the chain. I removed the split ring from the shaft and removed the sprocket which originally is part of the gear but was left on the shaft when the gear broke in three places. I elected to not remove the original washer and spacer and put the new gear with sprocket on the shaft, put the chain on the socket and installed the split ring. Slid the motor base back to original position putting slight tension on chain and a proper clearance between the gear and drive shaft (sheet of paper seperation). Reinstalled the covers, tested and was finished.

Compactor ram would go to bottom but not return back up after compaction. Keep running until unplugged. After unplugging flipped unit on its side and remover bottom plate (5) nut screws, exposing gears. Found that the main large gear had fine crack which caused it to spin loosely. Ordered gear assembly and lossened four mount screw on motor to move it forward and give slack on chain. Hint: Loosen motor mount bolts, DO NOT REMOVE bolts COMPLETELY! Removed broken plastic gear and reassembled with new. Held/ pushed motor back to retention chain and secured four (4) mount bolts Then reassembled bottom plate with screw nuts and it worked perfectly!!

First let me say that I read many of the other posts regarding this repair and without them I wouldn't have had a clue how to fix this. Since the ram apparently moved up and down when I shut it off and turned it back on I reasoned the directional switch must be the problem. Ordered the part, Quick delivery. To replace the switch I removed the draw and removed two screws on the frame that hold the control panel in place. Lift up to remove. My unit is a stand alone unit although it is installed under the counter. There are two additional screws to remove the top and expose the ram and power screw drives. To remove the directional switch from the control panel you need to remove two hex head screws that hold it in place. This is a little difficult because of the small space. With the help of a small nut driver I was able to remove it. Note: the screws are held in place by a flat piece of metal that acts as a nut. Be careful not to drop it. Then simply remove the wire leads (all color and letter coded) and remove the switch. I was careful to reattach the leads to the new switch as I removed each one. Be sure to replace the switch with the limiting lever in the same position as it was in (it is vertical). Put everything back together and you should be good to go. That didn't happen for me! Problem persisted! Next on my list was the power nut. I got access to the ram and power screw drives (see above for instructions). The two power nuts are plastic wing nuts that are held in place by metal covers. The metal covers are each held down by two hex head screws. To gain access to the power nuts you have to remove the metal covers. Note the position of the nuts in relationship to the power screw shafts so that when you reassemble it they will be in the same position as when you started. In my case the top of the screw shafts were even with the top of the power nuts. (CAUTION: the ram is held by this assembly. Depending on what position your ram is when you started this repair it may fall! My ram was in the up position and when I removed the second cover it slammed down to the bottom of the drive screws). My advice is to be prepared by bracing up the ram before removing the metal covers. No harm when the ram fell but it did startle me. I then removed one of the power nuts. It was split in half. The other nut was fine but I decide to replace it anyway. Ordered parts. Quick delivery. Before I attempted to replace the power nuts I removed the ram (it just lifts out) and cleaned every thing. I put some new grease in the places that I had removed it. Then sprayed WD40 on the power screws. When I put the ram back in, I broke the new directional switch I had put in. So be careful!!! I still had the old one so I ultimately put it back in. I then replaced the power nuts. This was a little difficult because I had to hold the ram up while I was putting the metal covers back on. I would suggest you either brace the ram or get someone to hold it while you put the metal covers back on (In retrospect I suppose I could have just put the nuts on when the ram was down). Reassembled everything. Should be good to go. That didn't happen for me! Problem was still there! I turn it on, ram goes down. I turn it off, ram goes up. Desperation!! The only other thing it could be is the drive gear assembly. Ordered parts. Quick delivery. The gear drive is on the bottom of the machine. Lay the machine on it's side to gain access to the bottom cover. There are 5 hex head screws that hold it on. Remove screws and cover. It's pretty simple from here. The drive gear was missing a few teeth but the rest were in tact. This explains why the ram was still moving up and down and led me to believe it was something other than the drive. The only difficult part was the removal of the pin in the drive shaft. I wound up using a bolt the about the same diameter and a hammer to drive it out. Then just reassemble. There are some instructions that come with the gear parts that tell you how to set the spacing in the gears but I had no problem just replacing the parts without making any "adjustments". Should be good to go! Yessssss! Everything worked perfectly!!! My final words of advice. If your machine has this problem CHECK THE DRIVE FIRST. It the easiest thing to do because you can visually inspect it and know or eliminate it as the problem. It's about a 5 minute job and can may save you some of the problems I had. A big thanks to PartSelect for sponsoring these posts. The repair company that I normally use told me the machine was too old and probably wasn't worth the $100 just to come out and look at it, never mind the additional cost to repair it. All in I spent less than $100 and had I checked the drive first, I could have been done for less than $30.

-Removed the forward sliding rail screws...lifted the rails up several inches to access the wheel assembly...bent back the steel tab to access the nuts holding the wheels to the frame...replaced the wheels and bent back the steel tabs to original position. Trash bin now rolls out completely as before