WRF560SFHZ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

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Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Unscrewed the mullion, lift to remove. Unplug the little electrical connector. Putting the new one on was just a little tricky, getting it to hook on, but not a big deal. Works as good as new now.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Called my handyman in after myself and my son went thru the whole thing with cleaning gaskets, etc, ordered part I thought I needed. After speaking with your person on the phone, he took out my veg drawers and the shelf that held them, then reinstalled the shelf and the door closed tight! Apparently the last time I took it apart to clean it, I didn't put shelf back correctly and that started my problem. However, your people were very nice and as helpful as they could be in the situation. It never was my door cam or cam door after all. Boy, is my face red!

THE REPAIR WENT SMOOTH BECAUSE INSTRUCTIONS WHERE CLEAR.. I WOULD NEVER HAD THOUGHT THE WEATHERSTRIP WENT ON THE WAY IT DID.

Once I figured it out. It was very easy. May not be right, don't know, but it works

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.