WRF560SFHW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I ordered the filters that were needed and received the wrong items. After reordering and then receiving the proper items the installation went very well.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Called my handyman in after myself and my son went thru the whole thing with cleaning gaskets, etc, ordered part I thought I needed. After speaking with your person on the phone, he took out my veg drawers and the shelf that held them, then reinstalled the shelf and the door closed tight! Apparently the last time I took it apart to clean it, I didn't put shelf back correctly and that started my problem. However, your people were very nice and as helpful as they could be in the situation. It never was my door cam or cam door after all. Boy, is my face red!

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Once I figured it out. It was very easy. May not be right, don't know, but it works

THE REPAIR WENT SMOOTH BECAUSE INSTRUCTIONS WHERE CLEAR.. I WOULD NEVER HAD THOUGHT THE WEATHERSTRIP WENT ON THE WAY IT DID.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.