WRF532SNHV00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)

My unit was a bottom mounted freezer, the door assembly and side out rack unit took more time then the repair. Once you take the back panel off it is just a matter of unplugging and two screws. Easier to pull fan mounting housing out to replace motor. Be careful its all plastic, pot off fan blades off shaft, pot out old motor, pot in new motor, slide fan blades back on shaft, make sure you get the mounting housing behind the duck that goes up to your refrigerator section, two screws and plug in connections and your done. Put back panel, rack and door assembly back in and you are friggen again, once you plug it in of course.

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

watched partsselect video and simply followed the directions

Couldn't be easier. Swapped out the old parts with the new. 3 screws total. Perfect fit. Like we have a new fridge now.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

Opened the bottom freezer door and pulled the gasket out of the groove. Pulled it out around the door and put the new one back around the door and the pressed into the groove. There was one place that a flat spot didn't take shape so I used a blow dryer to heat it up some and now it seals perfectly.

I watched the Part Select demonstration for removing and replacing the door gasket. It looked easy and was easier and faster than the demo. The toughest part was getting the wrinkles out of the new door seal.

Thanks for the video showing how to replace the Humidity Slide the knowledge that the end with the flair needed to be slightly bent to SNAP into place was a big help.

The icing n the freezer and wetness/ humidity in the fridge would not stop. I reasoned the freezer seal was bad and letting the outside humidity in. This fridge had been moved to the garage after a new one was put in my house. The new door seals completely fixed the problem, works perfectly now.

Replaced seal on door. Same problem. Went to Lowe's and got several magnetic cabinet door catches. Attached them to the top of the door. (they can be seen sticking up), with the magnet part screwed to the door and the metal plate attached to a small wooden block glued to the top of the body with contact cement. Cost abound $16.

"To infinity and beyond."

Removed the freezer door, by loosening 4 screws and pulling upwards to disengage door from frame. Removed the top basket by pulling up on both slides on the gear shaft sides, note they have retaining tabs you must push in. once the slide / guards are up the top basket comes out. Remove the bottom basket. Remove to angled screws on the top tracks and remove. Remove 6 screws on bottom slides, 3 per side and slide out as a whole unit. Unplug the ice maker, remove 3 screws for it to come out. Note I cleaned mine while it was out with vinegar to remove the mineral build up on it. Remove the screws in the back panel, and pull it forwards. The top vent has 2 clips that hold it in and you will need to remove it prior to fully removing the plate. The plug for the icemaker needs to be removed also. Pull the back plate out. Once the plate is out you can see the fan and access it. Unplug the clips that hold the wiring harness secure. 2 screws to remove the fan assembly. Once fan assembly is out, disassemble it, then reverse assemble it with new parts and fire it up. Mine took right off and running like its brand new.

I came across this site and looked at the diagrams. Instead of buying a new crisper bin frame, I noticed that the crisper bin frame was missing the frame brace. I purchased the frame brace and installed it in the crisper frame, which was easy to push into the slot. This solved my problem. No more sag!!