7ET20PKXDN01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.

I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.



























problem.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

just insert

I just snapped it into place. Easy Peasy!!!!

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.

Removal of the door gasket went quite fast. First i needed a 8mm wrench. That what I didn't have. Got the socket set, not the wrench. Tried adjustable wrench, went slow. I slowly got the bolts out. Putting the gasket on was slow. Then I get to the last corner, was awful for me. I finally get it on. Putting the freezer door back on 1st went crazy. I finally looked on top of refrigerator, saw (3) bolts, removed them, installment went easy from there.

Check for Video if any, watch 2X. The parts may look different (but not this time) Unplug.Defrost timer-dropped the control panel in the frig. the defrost timer sits right in the middle switch it out.Turn the timer to be set on the on cycle. Wasn't sure if the Bimetal thermostat was bad too so for a little over $20. I changed that too.- in the freezer- remove the metal panel and fan cover. its clipped on to the element tubing on the right. cut the wire. Splice the wire to connect the new one then cover with wire nuts. replace cover, plug in. use frig thermometer to verify temperature.

followed directions

Replaced but drawers are lesser quality to the original drawers. Do not glide open easily

first confirm that freezer is cold. if is frozen solid it needs to be defrosted. take the freezer items out,take shelf out, bottom cover, 2 screws. then ice maker, 3 screws and unplug wires. then back panel 2 screws. In refrigerator compartment were the controllers are located, look under it you will see 1 hole, insert a flat end screw driver and turn clockwise till it stops. this action will turn on your defroster, also the compressor will stop. is the heater melting the ice? if so soak up water and clean tray, use hair dryer in drain hole to aid in the defrost, check tray under fridge and if its dry keep defrosting. it should take half an hour. now take the flat head screw driver and turn the defrost timer clock wise out of defrost mode a quarter turn or so. the compressor should come back on, soon after the fan in the freezer compartment should also come on. this steps lets you no that the defrost heater works, fan works and drain hole is clear. if its defrosted place parts back in the reverse order. if not defrosted replace heater or mother board. in refrigerator compartment were the dials are located their are 2 screws, one on the left and the other on the right side take them out, the cover will drop down, you will find wiring schematics you will need them to install defrost timer. is timer making ticking sound? if no replace timer. new timer will be different from original so follow instructions that come with it. timer is above were the hole is located. the plastic hold downs will break when you try to take them off, unplug fridge, lift timer out and remove from wire harness. the new timer has a black wire that slips over either 1 or 2 depending on color of wire on the wire harness. check schematics. some silicone adhesive will keep unit in place, ad some into the plastic shaft prior to installation, plug wire harness return wiring instruction along with new one inside of cover, plug in fridge, turn defrost timer clock wise with flat head screw driver making sure that you hold timer from above so it wont move. did compressor come on?. put all paper work inside of cover before installing cover