6ED20TKXGW02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

So, easy my daughter had them set up before by the time I made it home from work..

I removed the screws holding the handle pieces to the refrigerator, then put the new handle in place and screwed in the screws.

Simple fix. I watched the video it was great.

Removed right hand door of side by side. Replaced both cams and put door back. All is well.

Very simply change old part just by hand

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Website accurately identified the replacement part. We ordered two additional bins since the others had been taped. They arrived within a couple days of placing the order and fit perfectly. Thank you!

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Removed the top hinge cap. Removed the 3 screws with a nutdriver. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and placed it on it's side. Then I removed both closing cams (one screw holding each). Clean the area then replaced each cam. I put some vaseline on the bottom cam and replaced the door. 4-5 minutes not counting removing and replacing the food inside the door shelves. I'm 56 years old and have always done most of my own handywork. I don't remember any job going so smooth and fast! Ever!

I removed the three small bolts (under cosmetic cap) located on the right top hand side of the refrigerator and pulled off the door. Replaced the top and bottom cams, put back on the door, screws and cap. Door works like new and the Wife loves it.

On a side note, don't be confused when ordering the top and bottom cam as they are both on the bottom of the door.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

DISCLAIMER: Technically, you should start by unplugging the frig and turning off the water supply. Though there is nothing on the my frig door that is either electrical or water related, the frig does keep trying to cooling an open area. For the short while I was doing the work, I just didn't want to bother with those precautions. Had I expected the work to take longer or been working on the FREEZER door I would have most certainly have done it "correctly." But I didn't do the freezer door so, first, remove everything from the refrigerator door storage shelves and the shelves themselves. Then lift off the cap that covers the hinge mounting plate on top of the frig. Remove the screws that holds the mounting plate in place. I used a cordless drill/driver with a 1/4" socket on the end but this could be done with a nut driver or socket wrench as well. Of course, take care not to let the door fall when removing the last screw. Then, lift the door off the bottom post that his holding it in place. The door is not too heavy and one person should not have a problem doing this but if you think it might be too heavy get someone to help with this. On the frig door there are no other connectors to be concerned with. NOTE: This procedure is similar for the freezer door but there are electrical and water line connections that need to be addressed before removing the door. Once the door is off the post, lay it down on a flat work service (I used the kitchen table with some towels spread underneath to prevent scratching either the table or the frig door.) There are two pieces that ought to be replaced. One cam on the door and one at the bottom post. Both are attached with a small screw that is removed easily with your nut driver/socket/drill driver. The bottom cam came offer fairly simply but sliding a thin, flat blade screw driver under it and prying it up and off. Replace this bottom cam with a new one and screw it back down. The door cam was, for me, the more difficult item. Removing the screw was easy enough but years of wear and brittleness led it to break off as I was trying to pry it out. I was able to use a small flat blade screwdriver to cave the old plastic post in all around the insert hole until I could get a good hold and pull it out with needle nose pliers. I was tempted to try to drill the old post out but there is a hex shape to the insert hole I was afraid of ruining. Once I got the old cam out, it was a simple matter to re-insert the new cam. Since both the door and lower cams are held on by screws there is only one way they can go back on. Once the cams are back in place, lift the door back onto the post and reattach the mounting plate to the top of the frig. Take some care that the door is level and parallel to the freezer door before completely tightening the mounting screws and replacing the cap that covers the plate. If you did shut off water and unplug the frig you should turn it back on and plug it back in. And do I really need to tell you to put the shelves and stuff back? :) The door should close on its own when close enough to the frig frame that the cam notches slide into place. If it hadn't been for the door cam being so brittle, this repair would have quite simple. Even at that, digging the old post out really wasn't hard but it did take some unexpected effort. If your refrigerator door is not closing properly, this is something anyone with basic skills can do.

Saw online info video explaining the possible cause and how to fix it. Ordered upper closing cam. Removed top hinge cover and hinge, removed door set it on a table. Removed old cam installed new cam tightened the retaining bolt put the door back on aligned it with freezer door and bolted it down snug. No more noise and it took less the half and hour.

Remove replace door with new cams.