GARF19XXPK01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

I did a Google Search for a 1998 Whirlpool ED22RF, looked for trouble Isolation procedures. Don't remember the web sites but two parts were mentioned namely the timer and the thermal relay. After making sure it was unplugged I removed the back lower insulation panel, removed the red wire from the relay located on the left side of the condenser and unplugged the relay. I examined it for physical damage before checking with an ohmmeter and found the thermal relay sounded like it was full of sand when I shook it. So we found PartSelect and searched for the thermal relay and found an exact picture with the part number and ordered the part. We received the $30 part 5 days later. Only took 15 minutes and two tools to install. Thank you for saving us a few hundred dollars.

Repair was very easy. We removed the glass from the shelf above the crisper drawers and then just snapped the rail into the frame.

Replaced the start relay in about 5 minutes and plugged the fridge in and it started working. Easy repair to get fridge working again.

lift glass from shelf. Insert back end of bracket first and snap the front in place. Install both drawers and replace glass and insert both drawers

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Ordered new drawer. New drawer seems to be better than factory drawer (slightly thicker). Removed old, removed white handle from old (ran hot water over old to make it less prone to cracking when prying off), pushed old white handle onto new drawer, inserted new drawer, done. New drawer is great; better construction. Thanks.

The repair was very easy, unplug ref. open freezer door, and remove base plate, then remove screws on back plate. I had to tilt top of back plate to remove from freezer. This gives you access to the evap. fan Pull of the three wires, and remove screws from fan bracket, which bolts to the back of ref. Remove fan motor from bracket (2) screws, remove motor, and put replacement motor on bracket, pull fan blade off old unit and push on new motor shaft. Reverse the installation, and you are done. Pretty easy.

1. Turn thermostat down to ensure cooling cycle turns on. Open freezer compartment and listen for air flow/fan. If no air flow or fan, but compressor seems to be working, then proceed to next steps. 2. Turn thermostat up to shut off refrigerator cooling cycle. 3. Open freezer and remove wire shelf (if installed). 4. Using nutdriver or socket set, remove screws securing metal panel on the back wall of the freezer interior. 5. Pull metal panel out to expose evaporator fan and evaporator coil. 6. Ensuring area around fan is clear, turn thermostat down to again start cooling cycle and check if fan operates - if not, then fan needs to be replaced. 7. Turn off refrigerator and unplug from electrical outlet. 8. Order replacement fan (unless you happen to keep one in stock). 9. Remove two screws securing fan and fan bracket assembly to back wall of freezer, note wire connections to fan (red, white and green), disconnect wires and remove fan assembly. 10. Gently pull off fan blade, it is a compression fitting. 11. Remove two screws holding back and front fan brackets together and remove fan motor. 12. Remove rubber gasket from front and back of old motor and insert then on the new replacement fan motor (these rubber gaskets align to openings in the fan brackets, thereby holding the motor in place when installed back into the brackets). 13. Reinstall fan brackets onto new motor matching how the old motor was assembled. 14. Press the fan blade onto the new motor shaft. 15. Reinstall fan motor assembly onto back wall of freezer. 16. Reconnect wires to new motor as they were previously connected to old motor. 17. Reinstall back wall metal panel that covers the fan motor assembly and evaporator coil. 18. Reinstall wire shelf (if applicable). 19. Plug refrigerator in and adjust thermostat to normal setting to initiate cooling cycle. 20. Open freezer and listen for fan and airflow, if you hear it operating correctly, then close freezer and refrigerator and confirm temperatures after refrigerator has cycled through one full cooling cycle - adjust thermostat as necessary. 21. Tell your spouse or significant other that for less than fifty dollars you just saved the price of replacing the refrigerator.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

pulled the fridge out and took the old ones out and put new ones in .... glad to find the right drawers though.... they fit perfectly....

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

Just replaced the old Push-On Start Relay and it started to work again.