GB9FHDXWB07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I was easily able to find the part using the online search. I order the part and it arrived in about two days. Installing the part meant pulling out the two crisper drawers, emptying the shelf above the crispers, removing two glass shelf plates, inserting the new part, replacing the glass plates, replacing the food on the shelf and sliding in the two crisper drawers. All in all, about 3 minutes.

Simply opened shipping container, washed new crisper drawer and slid it into the tracks on the fridge. Easy and quick.

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake

I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have to say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.

Replaced the electronics board. Fairly easy job. Video helped enormously. Programing is awkward.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.

You need to lift up the glass part and simply fit it the center rail in, very simple

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.