WRS325FNAE01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled out the old drawer and put in the new.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

simply slid out old damaged/taped up shelves and slid in the new ones i ordered,

I began by replacing the central light board by using a plastic non-marring wedge type tool slipping it between the housing and the retainers to release the latch like catch. Then I removed the lightboard and light cover assembly by depressing the latch like retainers for the two wire connectors. Installation was as simple as snapping the wires into the connectors and then pushing the lightboard and light cover assembly into place. One major note: I learned from a repairman that you cannot resolve the problem by simply replacing the central lightboard. you must replace all three lightboards, the two in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer because unless you can absolutely identify which board is causing the fault, it will continue to cause a problem on the main board and the lights will not work. Replacing the other two boards is the same as the central board. Additional comment to consider: I absolutely fail top see how this design of using three circuit boards for a simple light saves me anything; in fact after only 5 years it has cost me in excess of $400 (or 20% of the original cost of the unit) just in materials for a simple light--absurd, ridiculous design. If it burns out again I will have an appliance repairman install a simple 1950's design switch a small LED bulb which will probably last longer than the unit.

The repair was so simple. I removed the old icemaker in about 3 minutes and unpacked and installed the new one is about 10 minutes. It was literally a matter of removing a few screws! Eady to follow instructions!

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

I was not able to unplug the refrigerator because it is housed in a built-in. I removed the icemaker and following simple instructions from YouTube was able to pry the cover off the existing part. After a few gentle tugs, I disconnected the pinned wires from the old part. Connecting the new part was a little tricky but I managed with a little contorting. As soon as the pins connected the freezer light as well as the refrig lights came on. It took about 15 minutes to complete.

Excellent fit and installation. The door bins slid right in and created the extra space needed on the shelves.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

This company is WONDERFUL! I ordered the wrong drawer the first time, but their return process was a snap and the correct drawer arrived the next day. It's great to know that there is someone out there with just about every part you'll need for about any appliance that is truly customer friendly.

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

I tried to replace the light in the fridge first but couldn’t get it out (that one has the control board and is very expensive) so a replaced the one in the freezer by prying it off the ceiling. When I plugged the new one in all the other lights came on full power. Strange but I sent the other one back.

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

watched video. Very easy