WRT541SZDB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Took the old fan motor out and installed the new one. Wow it's getting cool now. Thank You Parts select for the information on your site. Fast shipping. Very pleased I found your site, which stated it was the fan motor 45% of the time. It saved me from having to have a repairman come to my home. I called one but he did'nt work in this area. They gave me another man's number, and I called and left a message on the recorder, but he never got back to me. So I was happy to have found your site. Thank You again!

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Following the info on another post from partselect site: Unplug the main refridgerator line from the outlet. Removed icemaker(didn't have this hooked up to operate), 2 screws and 1 hex nut; removed back panel of freezer wall (interior), be mindful of wiring harness on the left of panel, 2 hex nuts: unplugged fan motor from wiring harness, removed motor with 2 screws, gently, but firmly pulled fan blade off (a little tricky due to housing bracket around it) carefully noting 2 soft rubber gaskets that holds the unit in bracket. replace motor with new one ... follow above steps in reverse. helpful to have a small flashlight. make sure soft rubber gaskets are seated in place. Fan blade requires a firm but gentle push back on the metal post ... bottom of back panel seats over an opening in order for it to fit snug against the wall. I am totally satisfied with the info and seamless, expediant service with partselect ... thank-you so much ..

first remove ice maker 1-screw on the bottom all the way out and two screws on the top half way out slide up and out and unplug wiring as you remove then remove back panel unplug ground wire remove screws that hold fan assembly unplug wiring remove pressed on fan blade put new motor in reasemble and it was good to go

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.