WRT519SZDB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Top freezer, remove fan cover on back panel in side top freezer, remove back panel inside top freezer, remove fan and fan motor, unplug electric from fan (PS unplug fridge first). Install new motor, replace ever thing in reverse. works great.

took the old thermistor out and put the new one in.

I unplugged the refrigerator to remove power. I pried off the back plastic cover. Loosened the two screws with a nut driver. Disconnected the original thermistor and connected the new thermistor. Rerouted the wire and replaced the plastic covers. Restored power and waited for the refrigerator to return to temperature and shut off.

This didn't happen. The refrigerator continued to run. Contacted an appliance repair group and it was determined the `control circuit card' was defective. Part has been ordered. The thermistor did not resolve the problem, as stated in the original problem support contained on the web site.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Super simple job. Unplug freezer. Have a hair dryer handy to defrost while you have unit open. Remove food from the bottom two shelves and floor of freezer. Remove mid plastic cover removing three screws. (All screws are same so mixing them is no big deal.) Use drill-driver or screw driver to spin out six screws on lower back plate. Remove plate. Thermistor is on left side of the cooling tubing. Use hair dryer to melt ice if necessary. Un-clip thermistor power connection, and unsnap it from tubing. snap new thermistor on cooling tube and hook up wiring. Ensure plug fits together correctly and snugly. If heavy icing exists, use hair dryer to melt ice on coils and through fan. Ensure water drains out of drain pan under coils. Wipe up as much ice melt as possible to prvent re-frosting upon start-up. Replace lower panel and six screws. Replace mid-panel cover and three screws and replace shelves. Done! Plug freezer back in and expect 30 second delay before unit will start up.

We took out the shelf, the new track snapped in place easily.
Part Select is an innovative answer to dyo repairs, very
helpful through process.

Simply cut wires from old bi metal and joined to new part with wire nuts. Simple repair, but it did not correct the problem.

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!