WRT511SZDB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Just took the entire glass shelf of refrigerator out and flipped over. I then slid the replacement rack on and replaced in refrigerator and slid the deli drawer on to rack. Very simple. Took maybe 3-4 minutes.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

I screwed the bracket in. How ever the placement of the screw made it impossible to use a small wrench. I had to manually tighten it. Having a screw head would have been better

After describing my problem PartSelect consultant emmidiately diagnost the problem and I ordered Evaporator Fan Motor. Along with purches order confirmation I got video how to install a new motor.
The hardest part was to connectthe ground wire becase space in that area was verylimited. Otherwise it was just like a walk in the park.
As soon as I installed motor and turned on the refrigirator, everything start working properly.
Thank you PartSelect, you sved me hundreds of dollars.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Like you video

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

The problem with the replacement part is that it didn't fit cleanly and doesn't slide well with the existing drawer.
We were disappointed.