WRT518SZFW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Discard the broken crisper pan and replace with the new one

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

unplugged the fridge removed the shelf, remove the rear wall to access the motor removed the 2 screws holding the motor and unplugged motor from harness, then unplugged the groung wire .then put it back together up and running in 15 mins.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Removed the ice maker (3 screws) removed the back plate (2 screws) Remove the bracket holding the fan in (2 screws) Remove the rubber mounts on the old motor and the fan itself off the old motor. Then put it all back together in reverse order.

unplug, turn water off, remove ice maker & unplug,remove back panel remove old fan unit & unplug remove fan remove fan blades just pull off install new fan, put fan blades on new fan & install on bracket & re install plug in re install back panel. plug in ice maker re install ice maker . turn water back on plug refrigerator back in ( quite easy )

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Following the info on another post from partselect site: Unplug the main refridgerator line from the outlet. Removed icemaker(didn't have this hooked up to operate), 2 screws and 1 hex nut; removed back panel of freezer wall (interior), be mindful of wiring harness on the left of panel, 2 hex nuts: unplugged fan motor from wiring harness, removed motor with 2 screws, gently, but firmly pulled fan blade off (a little tricky due to housing bracket around it) carefully noting 2 soft rubber gaskets that holds the unit in bracket. replace motor with new one ... follow above steps in reverse. helpful to have a small flashlight. make sure soft rubber gaskets are seated in place. Fan blade requires a firm but gentle push back on the metal post ... bottom of back panel seats over an opening in order for it to fit snug against the wall. I am totally satisfied with the info and seamless, expediant service with partselect ... thank-you so much ..