WRF560SEYM02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I read the other comments on how easy the repair was, followed their advice, and it worked like a charm. Just use a screwdriver or butter knife to pop the track off the shelf and pop the new one back in.

The hardest part was getting the items in the refrigerator out of the way!

STRANGE ! to moment I installed the filter ALL the internal lights in my refrigerator went OFF and never came back.

Strange !! refrigerator works fine but no more light in it !!

My email is : Lucfontaine91@yahoo.com

DON'T USE earthlink email anymore

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Very simple, easy, and quick! Anybody can do it!!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Hold both water filter reset touch sensors down together. This will reset the water sensor indicator.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

First you have to pull power plug and after removing trays and door to freezer,, i removed ice maker and metal coil cover then i melted ice cake by using a space heater blowing in to freezer compartment ,, then i looked at how old part was mounted and installed my new one the same ,,, all this was done laying on my side up in freezer,,, it would have been easier if it was a top freezer rather than a bottom freezer like mine.i did all this hoping the defrost heat element was defective,any way it is back together working good.

opened the door removed the old and put in the new

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Pulled drawers and freezer door off. Removed ice maker and fan cover. Then the back wall cover. Unplugged old thermistor and removed. Put new one in place and reinstalled everything. Works like a charm.

Removed all food! I used storage boxes insulates with blankets and a bit of dry ice in the boxes to keep the food cold.

Removed bottom bin and shelf

Removed bottom cover and fan shroud, this exposes evaporator coil and the thermostat. I had to defrost the evaporator and thermostat, they were completely encased in ice.

Thermostat is clipped to the evaporator coil, simply pry it off and removed it from the wire harness. Easy! Thermostat has a connector!
Installed new thermostat in the same location as the old one. Connected it to the wire harness and replace the bottom cover.
Turned it on and it seems to be working fine, now three weeks after repair.

pulled the top shelf and poped open the door and replaced the filter

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.