WRS586FIEM01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Got new part. Removed cover. Tape at top had to be pried loose from door.

Had to turn cup cover from top portion to access power wire. Door and light wires had to be unplugged and moved from clips.

Two screws at bottom removed. Motor unit was freed up and set on table.

Had to remove bottom white section due to light Assembly was not on new section. Removed three screws. Removed three screws from new unit.

Attached old white section with light to new motor unit.

Reattached power wire routed into cup and plugged in. Cup turned clockwise so as to attach.Other wires re-routed and plugged back in.

Cover section screws inserted and reattached.

Turned on/off button back on. Checked all light switches in refrigerator and freezer section to ensure operating. Put bin back in and closed door. No warning lights present. Approximately one hour later, bin had ice in it.

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

Put on new door bin.

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

Just plugged it in

Great

What took the most time was figuring out how to access the back of the pad. This is what I finally put together. First, remove the two screws(with nut driver) holding on the silver plastic cover around the water dispenser orifice and the ice dispenser chute. Next there are two or three black plastic clips that hold the electronic face in place. They are located near the front of the face on the bottom. Take a small flashlight and point it up from the bottom of the dispenser area, and look for a hole in the clear plastic with a small black catch in it. There is one on the right, one on the left, and I think one in the middle. I released these catches by pressing up in the holes with a small flathead screw driver while pulling out on the electronic face. One by one I got them free and the electronic face came away, revealing two Phillips head screws which held the dispensers trim in place. I removed the screws then pulled off the base or drip catcher part of the dispenser. It pulled straight off revealing two more Phillips head screws. After removing them I used my small flathead to work my way around the narrow trim piece disengaging the four clips on either side of the trim that locks it onto the backsplash liner piece. On the bottom I worked the trim up and down to get it to come free of the metal edges of the door and the plastic splash guard. It was kind of a hassle as its job is to lock the splash guard to the door, it hooks to both easily. Once the trim is off and the splash guard the pad is attached too is removed and in your hands its a simple matter to slide the pad up and free of the back splash. The red and blue wire has simple routing to the back of the electronic face previously removed. Disconnect the black connector at the end of the blue and red wires that lead to the pad you are removing. Install the new pad following the original routing path and reassemble dispenser face in reverse order of removal. Be patient and look around to locate the parts described, sorry I don't know their proper names so I am calling the parts names that make sense to me. I hope that helps. Best of luck.

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

just followed the instruction on utube

with vidio

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?