WRS586FIDE00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.

Removed 4 bottom screws. Removed module screws. Replaced module and motor with new parts (came assembled). Replaced module screws and installed the ice maker with the 4 bottom screws.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Remove plastic cover, unscrew bulb, screw the new one in.

i first removed the ice maker and took the motor assembley off. Right away i saw the problem. The wheel which drives the arm broke.
Once i get the new motor modl i just replaced it (it just pops into place with 1 or 2 screws).
put ice maker back in freezer and wola. Starting cranking out ice within 15 minutes.

Tough part was diagnosing the problem: bad water inlet solenoid, frozen inlet line, bad ice maker motor, or door opening sensor? Went to a parts shop & discussed the problem with the serviceman. He said you just need to sequentially replace each part. No way say I, that could cost $300 with a no-part return option.

I decided to replace the motor...Eureka!! It worked.
The underside of the ice maker cartridge has a plastic snap clip on either side of the cartridge. You need push each up, pull the left side of the cartridge out part way & disconnect the electrical connector on the right side(left..you facing the refrig.) With the cartridge out simply remove the 5 screws from the motor plate of the left side & replace with the new one.
Very simple. Slide the cartridge back in the frig. until the 2 snap clips click. Voila...you done! Cost $86..not $300. Apparently the motor is too weak to do the job & burns out quickly. Manufacturer should correct this defect.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.

installed new parts

Turn off water supply. Remove cardboard cover. Loosen metal supply line. Remove valve from edge of refrigerator. Remove electric connection, plastic water line and main supply line. Install new valve in reverse order... check for leaks.

All food and drawers were removed from the freezer, including ice tray. The left side shelf brackets were removed to ease removal of the back panels which expose the the bi-metal defrost thermostat. Six screws to remove the large back panel, plus the shelf support rails needed to be loosened to remove the smaller upper panel. The bi-metal thermostat is mechanically clipped to the upmost coil of the condenser. The two wires must be cut and wires for the new thermostat spliced in. The wires were tinned with solder to insure a good connection, then twisted and crimped with an automotive end connector. With the smaller 22. 8 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator a lot of the work will have to be performed with one hand. The hardest problem here is diagnosing the malfunction correctly in the beginning. I was impressed that the replacement part was received in two days . . .

Poped ou the old switch, connected new switch and pushed back into socket.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.