WRS571CIDB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

Simple to replace. 6 screws out. Unplug connections... Plug back in, replace screws.

Unfortunately still not making ice. Will try fill valve replacement.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Took it out of the box. Emptied the ice out of the broken bin. Slid the new one in and all done.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

First turn off the ice maker. Then there's four screws in the very back you remove pull out the cover. There's hex head 516 bolts maybe quarter inch that hold in the ice maker unplug the ice maker reverse process

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

I thought I ordered a new drawer to replace the one that was missing. Apparently I only ordered the plastic part of the drawer, not the drawer ASSEMBLY, which required me to also order 2 plastic wheels, 2 wheel axels and a handle trim piece. The sum of all the pieces needed to replace my drawer assembly was going to be $250. That's ridiculous. SO I decided to send the plastic drawer back -- which cost me $70 in shipping. I will not be purchasing anything from PartSelect again.

Did my homework.
Consulted Utube
Bought the part
Installed

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

The repair went great, however, I had someone to put the part in for me.

The wire bundle under the left lower corner has 8 wires of which 5 were chaffed and broken due to operation of the door and poor design. Remove the kick panel to expose the bundle, remove hardware holding the bundle to allow room to strip and splice the wires. Ice maker works fine now.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.