WRT138TFYB01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed ice maker held on by 3 screws, took out 2 screws holding back panel, removed 2 screws holding bracket for fan motor, replaced evaporator fan motor and everything works great. Beware of thin splines, I have large hands and bummed up against them and slice one knuckle in 3 places which bleed profusely.

I removed the screws on top of the refrigerator and the freezer door, lifted the fresh food door off bottom hinge laid it on a covered floor, used a pair of wire cutters to cut old gasket. then pulled the gasket straight out all the way around. then I started on one corner using a putty knife to push the new gasket under plastic trim, then put gasket on opposite corner at top of door then did the same with other two corners, then used putty knife to go all the way around sliding gasket under trim. was easy.

unplug, turn water off, remove ice maker & unplug,remove back panel remove old fan unit & unplug remove fan remove fan blades just pull off install new fan, put fan blades on new fan & install on bracket & re install plug in re install back panel. plug in ice maker re install ice maker . turn water back on plug refrigerator back in ( quite easy )

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

removed the lower door. took out the old gasket, snap in the new one. piece of cake.

I was able to replace the the shelf bars with no difficulty after finding the right parts on PartSelect. The easy to view measuring menu helped me get the right size for the fit I needed. You always worry when you don't have the item in front of you but they make it easy to gauge. I will use them again. I replaced three bars that had been driving me crazy.

i removed the back cover off in the icebox,removed the fan motor,replace the new one now it works fine.very easy to do,saved alot of money on a new one.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch