WRT108FZDW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

Following the info on another post from partselect site: Unplug the main refridgerator line from the outlet. Removed icemaker(didn't have this hooked up to operate), 2 screws and 1 hex nut; removed back panel of freezer wall (interior), be mindful of wiring harness on the left of panel, 2 hex nuts: unplugged fan motor from wiring harness, removed motor with 2 screws, gently, but firmly pulled fan blade off (a little tricky due to housing bracket around it) carefully noting 2 soft rubber gaskets that holds the unit in bracket. replace motor with new one ... follow above steps in reverse. helpful to have a small flashlight. make sure soft rubber gaskets are seated in place. Fan blade requires a firm but gentle push back on the metal post ... bottom of back panel seats over an opening in order for it to fit snug against the wall. I am totally satisfied with the info and seamless, expediant service with partselect ... thank-you so much ..

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

i removed the back cover off in the icebox,removed the fan motor,replace the new one now it works fine.very easy to do,saved alot of money on a new one.

I actually followed the instructions by William. He did a great job. I ran into some difficulty because the wire connector on the replacement motor didn't match the old connector. We had to replace the connector on the new motor to match the wiring harness, which was easier than trying to match the connector on the motor. Had the connectors matched, the replacement would have taken less than 30 minutes to complete.

First i pulled the electrical plug from the socket so the refrigator was off than I removed 5 screws (3 of those holding the ice maker). pulled the icemaker toward the front and removed it I than took off the back of the freezer panel,(the back panel was removed by pulling the top of the panal towards me it came right out of the freezer) I removed an additional 2 screws holding the evaporator fan motor. Than I used pliers to squeeze the mounting bracket tabs (white tabs BOTTOM OF MOTOR BRACKET). I then disconnected the electrical FAN MOTOR PLUG and removed the motor. i than pulled the fan blade from the motor (fan blade is only a pressed onto the motor shaft.I than pressed the fan blade back unto the fan motor and reversed the above directions

Discovered that the fan in the freezer was not working properly. Removed the ice maker, paneling, wire harness and inserted new motor. Worked immediately and began circulating the cold air into the refrigerator.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

unplugged the fridge removed the shelf, remove the rear wall to access the motor removed the 2 screws holding the motor and unplugged motor from harness, then unplugged the groung wire .then put it back together up and running in 15 mins.

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.