W8RXNGFBD00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

unplug freg.took everything out.pulled out shelves and pulled out back panel.their was my part i had to replace.

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

Turn off power to the frig. Remove the shelves and back brackets from the freezer, then with a 1/4" nut driver remove the nuts holding the rear metal panel in place. Once removed the defrost thermostat is right in front of you. You will have to clip the wires from the old t-stat because they are in a harness. Once clipped, strip the wires back, wire in the new t-stat, add wire nuts and put it all back together. Very easy job to do, works great. Thanks Parts Select, Mike.

With service sheet, Enter service dagnostic mode, NO-6 is Desrost heater / Bi-metal Component status indicator shows 02 , it means Bi-metal is open, It should read 01,It's cover with Ice ( bellow 32 Dig. F )Mostly it open at 50 dig. F, To replace remove lamp cover and lamp + six hex screw with 1/4" nut driver, pull back cover ( with commen requirement to turn of power and deice the evaporator coil )out, bi-metal element is top at enterance of coil,cut both wire near bi-metal, join new bi-metal with wire nut or Insulated wire Jointer, Tape jonts proper,do neat work no hanging wire, Replace back removed parts back,Turn power back

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.