ED2SHAXML10 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.

Put new drawer in fridge.

I removed the back panel off the fridge and removed the old start relay device by simply unplugging it from the compressor. I had to detatch two wires and a capacitor from the device. The old start relay was definitely bad and you could tell by shaking it. Plugged in the new start relay device, reattached the wires and capacitor and was done. Fridge is perfect now! Very simple!

At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.

The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control box to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.

It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

I was about to waste $1000 on buying a Refrigerator. Took 1 mins to search on google "Refrigerator doesn't work". Found a video on youtube, showed a step and step video to solve my problem. Order the part $50 and it took me less then 5 mins to install it. =)

looked up the model #, found your co. & ordered a new one Service was excellent, shipping reasonable; it was a pleasant surprise. I will tell my friends about your co.

Turned the lock knob on the filter and removed. put
lock knob on new filter and installed.

Very user friendly website, would highly recommend to anyone.

The refrigerator would not come back on after the defrost cycle unless I smacked the housing around the controls. Since it would come back on after stricking the housing I knew it must be a sticking relay. I used the exploded drawings from Parts Select to determine how to disassemble the housing. Once the part arrived I swapped it out in about 10-14 minutes. The drawings made the job simple. Thanks Parts Select!!! -neal

I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.

Removed the old filter (it screws out) an put the new one in!

Removed 2 screws holding housing to frame. Pulled housing out 10 inches. Removed water lines. Attached water lines to new housing. Pushed back into place. Secured to frame with 2 screws. Put in new filter. DONE!

I discovered recently that the grille was removable. The protective coating had been removed because of using a scrub brush to remove hard water stains. It looked horrible and was very hard to keep clean. The new one works fantastically!! No tools required at all. I feel stupid not having done this sooner.