5VET2WPKLQ04 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

Took the food off a temporary shelf I fixed up from old parts of something else and slid in the new one after taking off 3 stickers.

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Ordered new set and installed

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

Cut support and replaced. Easy

I recieved the Replacement Dairy door in the Mail removed from the box and snaped it into place. Great!

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I simply took the glass cover from the package. It came packaged really well. Thank You so much for that! I was concerned about breakage. Once it was released for packaging, I simply slipped it into place in the refrigerator. It was very easy.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.