8ET17NKXBW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I Clean the handle both top and bottom. I place the cap in place on the bottom of the handle and tap it in snug with a hammer. I then place the top of the handle back into it's original position and then I screwed the end cap in place at the bottom. EASY !!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Took out the old, cracked, crisper unit and removed the white trim piece on the handle so that we could re-use it on the new crisper unit (which, in spite of the $90+ price tag did not come with new trim). The whole thing took 3 minutes to do.

install ice maker 2 screws wire harness pluged in done

PartsSelect diagrams at their website made it easy to find and order the right part at a reasonable price. I removed the lower glass shelf and frame that supports it. I removed broken track and slipped in the new track and snapped it in place with the orifice at the rear of the track over small peg in the back of the frame. If I had called a regular refrigerator repair man, i'll bet this job would have cost me at least 70 or 80 dollars,

removed old and installed new compartment door by hand.

I just slipped the new drawer into place. So easy, even a woman can do it! ( I am female!)

The repair was easy, I removed the cover on the top front of the fresh food compartment. It housed the defrost timer which was easy to identify and replace. Just removed a screw, unplugged the wires and replaced with the new part. Unfortunately, that wasn't the only problem. I also had to replace the defrost element that the timer sent power to. While I was at it, I replaced the defroster thermostat. The entire repair took under an hour, diagnosing the problem took the most time and effort.

After the front panel was removed, disconnected the timer and installed new in reverse order. The provided instructions could be more straight forward, I spent more time reading it than the installation itself.

I replaced the cracked crisper drawers with the new ones just by sliding them in the bottom of the refrigerator. This did not solve the problem because one of the drawers was smaller than the other one and left a big space. When I ordered the Crisper Drawers I looked at the part diagram and it looked to me that the drawers were two different sizes and thats what I ordered. I now need to order another large drawer to finish the repair.

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

Followed instructions from ideoo

Removed the old gasket and ran the hard edged lip into the opening behind the door liner. Concerned that the gasket does not seem to be attaching itself to the door well. First put it on the side of the refigerator and it would not adhere enough to support itself. While it closes it just doesn't seem to attach with the magnets in the gasket. These magnetic strips have a weak magnet side and a strong magnet side. I wonder if they put the wrong side facing the door when they assembled it. Counter this with a new gasket for an upright freezer which was twice the length and attached itself firmly to the side wall of the freezer and did not slide down.

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.