3VED29DQDB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Darrell from Cedar Bluff, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP2188656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
track of the pan become broken
Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Steve earney from Brooks, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then not cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Paula from Chesterfield, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP2188656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drawer guides broken
Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- john from seaford, VA
- Parts Used:
- 4388736
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
Removed Ice bin from Fridge
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Removed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Removed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Cathy from Winter Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Thomas from San Clemente, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4318165
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The door would not close properly. The CAM had broken.
The repair was very simple.
1. Remove the food from the door shelves.
2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.
3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.
4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)
5. Replace top CAM and shim on door (one screw)
6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.
7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.
8. Done and works better than new.
1. Remove the food from the door shelves.
2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.
3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.
4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)
5. Replace top CAM and shim on door (one screw)
6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.
7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.
8. Done and works better than new.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Charles from Orland Hills, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP2196157
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broken elbow on icemaker water fill tube.
Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- michael from clarksville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The compressor would shut down and not restart unless you tapped the temperature knob which i did for about 3 weeks before ordering this part
Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. Works great now and i have ice everyday :)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- David from Chester, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP628356
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Eddie from Gretna, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Refrigerator was not cooling properly.
I removed both plastic knobs from assembly faceplate. Then I loosened the screws holding thermostat housing to upper cabinet of fridge. Following this step, I loosened the screws of the thermostat to remove it. Next was the removal of the plate and vent pieces holding the thermostat wire sleeve in place. After removal of thermostat from sleeve; all steps were reversed and unit was up and running normal (cooling) with no problems. "Ahh, it's nice to have cool again "
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Victor from Morgan Hill, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP2188656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken Criper drawer
First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Wayne from Leesburg, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP627985
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
No ice in ice trey
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Wallace from Weslaco, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10422851
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Plastic Auger on the Ice Maker broke.
Was very confused when the part sent out looked nothing like the one it would replace. There was a note in the package saying that this would replace it but I was doubtful. Suggest that it be made very clear that this is an upgraded part to replace a bad design.Had not problem once i checked the website and found this to be correct replacement part. I didn't have any problem with the order of the crusher blades as once I removed the shaft nut I slid all of the parts in order onto the awl. Then it was a simple matter of sliding them off of the awl onto the auger shaft. The new metal auger works much better than the plastic one it replaces.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Pavel from Norwalk, CT
- Parts Used:
- 4388538
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The studs to hold the shelf were broken
The hardest part was to figure out how to remove the old studs and put in new ones. I figured out finally that they should be twisted out and in., Simple online or printed insruction would be very helpful. Unfortunatelly the manual does not contain any repair information.
I fixed it with little trouble.
I fixed it with little trouble.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Brian from Fort Collins, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP2188656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drawer Broke
I first opened a beer to gain some liquid courage. The crowd (dog and 2yr old) were anxiously watching while I first grabbed hold of the refrigerator door. The door swung open with a mighty roar exposing the huge gaping whole where the previous crisper pan once shelved itself in glory. I took aim, and slid that new crisper pan in like it was meant to be. The crowd went nuts...but probably because the tv commercial was over and Sesame Street was back on. Thanks partselect!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!