3XARG478F01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I took off the front cover with the controls. Pulled out the control knobs, unbolted the assembly (which was identical to my replacement part) and proceded to follow the old thermostat tube to the back of the fridge. The tube should be carefully removed, not pulled on, there's a couple of screws holding it in towards the back. I installed the new part in reverse of how I took out the original part. I'm very happy with how the fridge has come back to life! It was much cheaper to fix it than to replace.

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

Found the housing for the thermostat; took housing apart pulled out thermostat and took off the hose put the hose on the new thermostat installed new thermostat and replaced housing.

disconect the power removed the screws with the phillips screwdriver removed the front cover and then removed the rest of the screws. removed the three covers and then removed the thermostat. replaced in reverse order.

This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

left the shelf/vevetable in place. used pliers or adjustable wrench to remove broken peice. a standard adjustable wrench will remove this peice, it has flat surfaces to grab. make a 1/4 turn going upward. use a flat tip screwdriver to remove old part. discard old pard. insert new part into shelf support hole flush or fully into the hole. While applying a slight amount of force to keep part flush against the wall make a 1/4 bownward part is self locking. I think you only get one chance so take it easy.

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

I removed the drawer and the shelf. I looked at the support on the other side to figure out how to insert the new one. Due to the shape of the "hook" part of the support, and the hole it needed to go into, I figured out which way I needed to insert it to be able to twist it so it would stay in place. From another online hint, and from talking to a repairman at a local shop (who had ordered me the wrong part) I knew I needed to twist it after inserting it. I used a pair of pliers to twist it counterclockwise, about a 3/4 turn. I put the shelf in and re-installed the drawer.

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.