ED26MM1LWR0 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Simlpy removed two screws to remove the old part. replaced the new part and put the two screws in. Job finished.

The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked.
Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack.
I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.

1. Turned off the cold water under the sink.
2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge.
3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge.
4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out.
5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4.
6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.

7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again.
Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess.
Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has.
Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle.
It took more time to type this, then to do the work.
I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be.
I hope that this was helpful,
Jim Vourakis

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

I purchased the part and put it in,

Simple. 1st, removed broken part to understand part (water fill tube to freezer, plastic part at top of fill tube cracked). 2nd go on your web site and look at prints to find part number, Study video to understand video. 3rd. Called customer service and lady was very nice and efficient. Placed order and received. Study video again and installed. My 9 year old grandson was visiting from out of town and assisted in installation. Just over 30 minutes to install

Following the instructions on the site I removed the upper hinge cover and hinge(after removing the shelves from the door). I replaced both cams on the bottom hinge, reinstalled the door and the problem was solved. A couple of hints that may speed up the process: 1. On installing the door cam, I didn't get the holes in the door and cam aligned well due to a bit of interference from the metal tab on the door, so I temporarily inserted the upper hinge pivot in the bottom hole and retightened the cam. 2. I decide to re-align the freezer door . After this, the ice and water dispensers didn't work. Turns out the internal freezer light switch which also acts as a cutoff switch for the door dispensers wasn't being activated. Easy to adjust once the cause was discovered.

Followed the video instructions.

I used a phillips screw driver, took the old one off, replaced the new one and it worked immediately!!! Didn't have to turn anything off...fixed in 5 minutes for $11. Fantastic Experience and my husband was shocked. No repairman bill.

We pushed the water return hose up from the bottom of the freezer door then we cut the water hose off then we taped the new water hose to the old one using electrical tape then we pulled and pushed at the same time and ran it back down through the door, be careful when you get to the bottom of the door it might stick a little going through the door , on my first try the tape came off without the new hose coming through. Just run the old one back up through the door and re tape it and try again. The connection at the bottom is just a pull out and push in connection and it won't leak after you push it in.

Remove one 5/16 screw from top hinge cover plate. Trace outline of hinge on top of refrigerator with sharpie, so you will know where to put hinge back. Remove 3 5/16 screws from hinge. Lift door up out of bottom hinge, place on table to be able to work on. Remove one 5/16 screw and upper cam piece from bottom of door and replace with new upper cam piece. Remove one 5/16 screw and lower cam piece from bottom hinge on refrigerator. Replace with new lower cam piece and one screw Set door back in place and reattach top hinge with 3 screws adjust refrigerator door as needed for a nice even gap between freezer and refrigerator doors. Tighten screws down and put hinge cover back on with one screw.

Pop off six mounting screws and the ground screw. Remove the fan blade and reattach. Reinstall. Save yourself big bucks.

Removed the cover plate on top. Used a wrench and the nut driver to remove the three screws & the screw holding the grounding wire. Pulled apart the plastic coupling for the wiring to light the freezer. Then with the aid of a friend - lifted the door (with food removed from door shelves) off the hinge. This freezer had a water line which we didin't know how to disconnect so we were careful to move the door slightly away from the broken hinge, set it on a stool with one person holding the door steady while the other person installed the new hinge piece. Definitely takes two people (as suggested in the directions) to both lift and guide the door into place. Once it was in place - I reinserted the screws up top and tightened them. Then had to untighten them to get the door to line up as it should vertically - so I would suggest just lighten tighen the upper screws until the door is aligned and swinging smoothly. Then reattached ground wire and plastic coupling. Works great.

Removed all of the food from the door by lifting the shelves out. Unbolted the top door hinge, and lifted the door off. Replaced the cam and placed the door back on, re-bolted the top hinge and placed all of the food and shelving back into the door. The door closes and seals when it is shut.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!