ER8AHKXPL03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gail from Golden, CO
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broke light switch while cleaning
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
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- Customer:
- Joseph from BONITA SPGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11700559
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
none
install ice maker 2 screws wire harness pluged in done
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Chesterfield, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP2196157
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The plastic water fill tube got cracked when we moved. I called a parts company and they told me they couldn't just sell me the tube I would have to buy a whole kit for about $50 dollars. I decided to glue the tube. It worked for a while then it started leaking. So I thought I would have to buy
I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.
Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!
Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!
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- Customer:
- Cathy from HOPATCONG, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
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- Customer:
- Barry from FORD CITY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Freezer occasionally had a temperature alarm.Clicking noise also.
Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.
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- Customer:
- Michael from SALINA, KS
- Parts Used:
- W11700559
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
3 screws
Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.
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- Customer:
- Jacqueline from LEXINGTON PK, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
No cold
Like you video
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- Customer:
- Adam from GLOVERSVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Plugged it in.
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
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- Customer:
- Christopher from CASTAIC, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10511937
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Wasn't getting or staying cold enough
Watched the installation video and was able to make repair easily
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- Customer:
- Lynette from LOS ANGELES, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP10097204
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced a broken starter relay that was clicking
Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
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- Customer:
- Robert from MERRIMACK, NH
- Parts Used:
- WP2196157
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Connection leaked as tube entered freezer
Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.
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- Customer:
- Bernard from DONALDSONVLLE, LA
- Parts Used:
- W11745278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
door hinge broke.
Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.
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- Customer:
- Justin from BROOKLYN, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10920279
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge won't start
When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.
This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.
I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.
I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com
This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.
I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.
I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com
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- Customer:
- Doug from Lancaster, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
compressor not running
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
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- Customer:
- Carolee from Spokane Valley, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light switch broke
Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.
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