3XART700F00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I follow the video From The Tech Guy ( Gentleman ). Thank you... Best Regards .Fco

watched your instructions

I just did what the instructions outlined and the job was done fast.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Following the instructions on the site I removed the upper hinge cover and hinge(after removing the shelves from the door). I replaced both cams on the bottom hinge, reinstalled the door and the problem was solved. A couple of hints that may speed up the process: 1. On installing the door cam, I didn't get the holes in the door and cam aligned well due to a bit of interference from the metal tab on the door, so I temporarily inserted the upper hinge pivot in the bottom hole and retightened the cam. 2. I decide to re-align the freezer door . After this, the ice and water dispensers didn't work. Turns out the internal freezer light switch which also acts as a cutoff switch for the door dispensers wasn't being activated. Easy to adjust once the cause was discovered.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Followed instructions that were online when ordering part. Put a adjustable wrench on the square end of the plastic support and twisted upward. Support bracket came off easily. Inserted new part and twisted downward on the square end of the support and it locked in place. Surprised it was so simple.

Simple read about three of the other peoples repairs,did the same and (PIECE OF CAKE)
Only problem ordered the cam kit with shipping over # 18.oo and only needed two pieces to do the job. Should have ordered just the two cams and saved a lot of dough.
But done and over with a happy camper (WIFE)

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

inserted stud and twisted

To get the broken end cap off of the retainer bar, hold the retainer bar still and pull the broken end cap straight off on a line that is parallel with the retainer bar, and with a little tugging. Might even have to tap the end cap lightly. Slide the new cap back on to the retainer bar and then put the end cap back into the door slot by putting the bottom of the end cap into the slot first by tilting the upper part back a little, then pushing down on the end cap to get it down into the slot far enough to let the upper part go in. Then adjust the end cap up slightly to cause it to snap into place.

1, Removed heavy items from door bottom two shelves.
2. With door closed, prop up door with 2x4 boards and wood shim to support door weight.
3. With nut driver, wrench or socket wrench remove lower door hindge.
4. Removed worn plastic door cams and shim.
5. Install new door cams and shim.
6. Install lower door hindge and lubricate cams with silicone grease.
7. Remove wood bracing.

First, after re-reading your descriptions here on your site ( it took clues from each of them) I unplugged the refrigerator and began on the only day my husband was out of town. The two selector knobs came off easily fingers only. The plate came off with only a slight prying with a screwdriver (it is intended to snap off this way). Loosening the screws and removing them in order to remember which order they returned proved to be a challenge. After disassembly, pulling the thermostat out of the tubing and replacing it with the new one without bending it was hard to do also. The refrigerator runs like new, and may run another eleven years! Thanks!