4YED25PWAW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

the process was pretty straight forward though the part came without instructions. We were able to replace the part improperly with ease. however, we were not able to get the pieces aligned properly for a long time. We ended up taking the door off many times to try to realign the pieces. After many hours I finally unscrewed the bottom cam while the door was in place. The piece popped into place and all was fixed. Had the part come with directions telling us to do this we would have replaced the cam within 15 minutes!

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Removed door,layed on floor and worked myself around door. I had soaked gasket in hot water before hand but that did not remove wrinkles that well and made gasket stick out some when finished so had to keep adjusting gasket so door would close and still doing it, otherwise got to open freezer first before closing other door until I can get it adjusted.

I could not have done it without reading the repair story about this same issue. I DID take a digital picture before taking the blades out and that was helpful. NO ONE, except in the repair story, ever mentioned the reverse screw to get the blades off. It simply made it possible for me.
I fixed it!!!! I am a 69 year old widow who loves crushed ice, so I am happy!!
The PartSelect service is great!

we read on this site how to run the tube down thru the door but we had some problems. we used tape to put together the old and new hose to snake it down and the old hose pulled apart from the new and was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the door. my husband propped up the door and took the bottom hinge off to get to the hole where the tape was stuck and I was able to get a hold of it to finish pulling it through. I think we had to thick of tape wrapped around the two pieces.

Following the diagram of parts so that I could order the right items was the most difficult part of the job. The web site for this task needs to be more friendly.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

Heated new door gasket in clothes dryer for 10 minutes. Moved all food out of door into refrigerator proper. Removed door from refrigerator and laid flat on living room carpet. Placed a tarp over the refrigerator opening. Loosened nuts on door holding gasket in place. Removed old gasket as I went. Inserted new door gasket. Needed to use putty knife to get new gasket seated properly. Re-tightened nuts as I went. Rehung door on refrigerator.

Removed all ice from bin and let it thaw. Removed all screws and nuts from the front to release the ice crusher and the long bit. Had already printed out all the advice from others on the on-line section about taking photos and not getting the crusher blades out of order. Removed the clip with needle nose pliers and the washer. Removed the blades laying them down in exact order and direction they came off. Put on the new auger drum and reversed everything. It was nice to know that the plastic screw that held the clip is a reverse thread, otherwise we might have broken the dang thing. Too bad there aren't instructions with the part when you get it instead of just a diagram. All-in-all, it went well.

I watched the repair video and did exactly as described. Excellent video and step by step instructions. Follow them and you cannot go wrong.

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!