8ET20NKXFN02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Yvonne from Fredericksburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drawer cracked/split
I just slipped the new drawer into place. So easy, even a woman can do it! ( I am female!)
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- Customer:
- Jonnie from Belton, TX
- Parts Used:
- 4388947
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
freezer handle did not fit
took the screws out of refrigerator and places handle on refrigerator and screwed them tight
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- Customer:
- MATTHEW from STOCKTON, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4387478
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The Light Socket Burned Out.
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
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- Customer:
- Debra from Lakewood, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My Crisper Pan was broken so I needed a new one.
I ordered a new one waited for the new ones to come in once it did I took out the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. It was simple.
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- Customer:
- William from Fairfield Glade, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer Cold - Refrigerator Warm
After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Carolee from Spokane Valley, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light switch broke
Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.
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- Customer:
- Lamar from American Fork, UT
- Parts Used:
- WP2314549
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Shelf broker which holds the crisp drawers
Wife did the replacement of the the plastic part very easy to do. I was very impressed with the speed in which the part was delivered to my home after it was ordered. Thank you very much. Lamar.
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- Customer:
- Xiaoping from KIRKLAND, WA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no drawer
just insert
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- Customer:
- Leora O from PIERZ, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP2195916K
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
door Shelf end cap was broken
I just snapped it into place. Easy Peasy!!!!
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- Customer:
- Cathy from HOPATCONG, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
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- Customer:
- Eddie from BRONSTON, KY
- Parts Used:
- WP4387503
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My refrigerator would not defrost.
The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.
I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.
problem.
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.
I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.
problem.
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- Customer:
- Michael from SALINA, KS
- Parts Used:
- W11700559
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
3 screws
Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.
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- Customer:
- MARK from OJAI, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10421486
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The fridge was missing the lower shelf bar on the door
The bar slipped right into a groove on each side and took less than 5 seconds.
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- Customer:
- charles from REDDING, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Warm refrigerater
Followed instructions from ideoo
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- Customer:
- Lynette from LOS ANGELES, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP10097204
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced a broken starter relay that was clicking
Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
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Thank you for voting!