WRS346FIAB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

using a flat blade tool removed old main light board and installed new light board, light now works fine.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Previously replaced the Fridge light (control board).. The Fridge and Freezer lights were flickering rapidly...LIghts worked fine for four months...then the freezer light went out completely and the fridge light went dim. I unplugged the freezer light and all lights went out! Hooked it back up and ordered new freezer light. After replacing freezer light all three lights work perfectly at full intensity problem solved...For now!

First I removed all food in freezer.Then removed selves and hanger brackets.Then the back panel and light cover.Then I unplugged motor but before this I unplugged refrigerator from the wall.Removed motor from bracket after pulling of fan. Reversed the order to install motor and put back together

Unplug, then on the freezer side, remove the drawers, then remove the screws holding the sheet metal cover, remove the rails (for the drawer) that interfere with removing the sheet metal cover. pull the wires off the motor. There is a big plastic piece that holds a small plastic piece that holds the motor. Remove the plastic piece that holds the motor/fan (you might be able to swap the motor by removing the little plastic piece that holds the motor, or you can remove the bigger piece and then remove the small piece that holds the motor). Pull the fan blade off (to reuse), swap the motor. NOTE - the new motor wire terminals may be on the opposite side of the motor vs. the old motor - that is not a problem - there is plenty of room for the wires. After the motor is installed put the fan blade back on, reinstall the removed plastic pieces in the back of the refrigerator. Now, I'd suggest a quick test. Make sure the new motor works and the fan blows before you button it up. Once you know it works, power it off, and put the sheet metal cover back on, reinstall the basket brackets, put the baskets back in place, close the door, and turn it back on.

I would suggest loosening the supply lines attached inside the rear. This will give you plenty of slack to disconnect the lines from the housing.

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

easy peezy - removed old light/module and installed new one works great.

Removed screws, unplugged connectors to the two faulty circuit boards, reconnected both cables to new/replacement circuit boards, reinstalled screws. Extrremely simple! Worked perfectly! Saved about $150 in less than 30 minutes. Great, fast service by PartsSelect.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Dumped out the ice, removed the broken ice bin by colapsing the undamage retaining clips and lifting away from the base and installed the new ice bin. Easy as ice!!!

Easy!!!!! Just cut the power to the unit and unscrew the boards. One is to the right of the ice maker and one is to the left. Snap the connecter on the old board so it will disconnect and replace it. It works perfect now. I had a service man come out and he quoted me $400.00. He told me I needed a whole new ice maker too. Not true. I simply email you guys and had the part in 3 days. It only cost me $80.00. I will use your site for every part I need. Thanks

I called a local appliance repair / sales store and he told me what to look for. There is an electronic "eye" on the "On / Off" panel in the freezer, and there is an electronic eye that sends a beam across to the other side where there is a receiver. If there is no beam, or the beam is obstructed --- for example when the freezer door is open the little "door" on the opposite side of the On / Off switch opens, interrupting the beam --- the icemaker will not work. In my case it was easy... there was no beam being sent across, so I KNEW it was bad.

Ordered the part, took out 6 screws total to remove the sender and receiver, removed the circuit boards with 3 more screws, replaced with new boards, and reinstalled.

Trust me - a 10 year old could do this. Don't be afraid because it involves "circuit boards" - it's literally one or two screws, replace the boards, screw them back in, and plug the two sides back in. ANYONE can do it... anyone!!!

(1) Remove the drawer by pulling it open until it catches. Push up gently on the bottom-rear of the drawer to lift it over the stop tabs in the drawer rail, and pull the drawer out completely. Note: You will need to push the refrigerator door gently to the fully open position to remove the drawer all the way. The door will open about 30 degrees further than where it comes to rest on its own when opened.
(2) Remove the shelf by lifting gently on the front and sliding it forward. Once the rear corners of the shelf are beyond the upper lip of the shelf rail, you can lift the shelf out of the rail, and turn it vertical to remove through the fridge door. Note: the glass in the shelf is meant to stay in, but if its old or damaged it may tip out when you turn the shelf on its side. So you may want to tape it in place before removing the shelf.
(3) Install the new shelf by repeating step 2 in reverse.
(4) Reinstall the drawer by repeating step 1 in reverse.