GI6FARXXY07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I removed and disassembled the broken frame. I cut a six inch piece of coat hanger and folded in half and crimped together. Then I took pliers and made a hook that I hooked into the metal strip in the back of the refrigerator that holds the upper shelves. After replacing the frame, center rail and glass I bent the wire up under the back of the frame to provide a support. The back of the frame is weak and has no center support.

I broke the glass in the frig and found partselect and ordered the new glass and had it in 2 days. Very fast shipping.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Simple placement of new glass pane into crisper top

Pulled the whole assembly out and unscrewed the Ice maker and old wire harness loose. pulled one wire at a time loose and put the new one in place one wire at a time so not to get them wrong. Then the ground wire I cut and stripped and used a wire nut to connect the two green wires together. Otherwise you would have to take more things off to get to the 1/4 nut on the ground wire. Then put the three screws back in the ice maker bottom.Slid it back in place and plugged in the new wire harness. And put the plastic cover back in place to cover the wires. You can also look on U-Tube to see how it is done. They just do not show the new harness I was sent. I guess the ice maker I got fit other models.

Removed old shelf and installed new shelf. No tools required

Simple. Just put it on the racks provided in the fridge. The part fit perfectly and took literally 5 seconds to put it on.

Don't try and remove the front/handle from the broken pan, you will break it and its double the price of the pan, just use the small hammer to break the pan into smaller pieces and remove handle from them then the handle will just snap onto the new pan. Piece of cake!

Looked online for instructions. I had to remove the shelves from inside the frig, then pop off part of the right inside back wall. The way the 3 water lines attached to the inlet valve was a terrible design. There are plastic little collars that need to be pushed back to release the water lines from the old valve, then when you install the new valve, you need to push them back to reattach the water lines. Once installed, one had a leak. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the little plastic collar to disengage. I couldn't push the line in further and I couldn't get it back out. Ended up cutting the line off at the valve just to get it out. Then had to cut out the piece that was still stuck in the valve. Tried to install it again and it leaked even more. Ended up putting the old valve back in and throwing away the $130 new inlet valve because there are no returns on electrical parts. Total waste of time and money ! ! ! Not happy to say the least.

I easily ordered the part. When it came in, I just shut off the water, disconnected the electricity, and followed instructions to remove shelving and drawers. Then removed the rear interior cover, removed the old water inlet valve and installed the new one. Just a couple moldex wire connections and the 3 water lines in and out. Don't know if this is still ok, but so simple a caveman could do it. Sorry Geico.

Removed the top glass above the vegetable drawers and slipped the center rail in place. And I would like to add that I would do business with this site again!

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

you tube video was most helpful. after getting new part and disassembling old ice maker, you have to change out the wiring harness. Reinstall ice maker, don't worry about the timing of the unit as it will do this itself, may take 10 hours to produce ice, mine took about 2 hours to go through its' cycles and give me ice. It is running great