BRS80ARANA01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

I went onto YouTube to see how to properly replace the old gasket with a new one. The new gasket was softer and had a better upgraded seal design. Installation required me to CAREFULLY use the putty knife to push the gasket into the holding slot. This is also a better. more secure design. The corners of the hard plastic insert did need to be SLIGHTLY trimmed to eliminate some "over gap closeness". I did the work with food in the refrigerator. I suggest that you do an EXTENSIVE defrosting as ice will have probably built-up way beyond "normal" using the old gasket. I defrosted several days after installing the new gasket. I used a hair dryer, spent about a 1/2 hour from top to bottom and drained about 6-8 oz. of "Frost". I also only fill the fridge with food about 3/4 full. This provides proper air circulation and even cooling. I hope you found this helpful.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Just plugged it in

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Like you video

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Pull the broken one out, push new one in!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

In the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet is a small drain that should allow any extra water to drip down to the bottom pan of the refrigerator where the compressor is. The compressor is warm and will evaporate the water quickly. If that drain gets clogged then the water will eventually spill out onto the floor. These parts are not necessary to fix the leaking water but when you open the cabinet to check around, you’ll find a lot of mold and fungus has grown on the Styrofoam because of the wet conditions. So I replaced the Styrofoam holders that secure the heat exchanger. This is easily done by removing the white plastic cover in the back of the refrigerator, and then wiggling out the two Styrofoam holders on the left and right. It’s a little easier if you have the new parts before you remove the old parts because they have to fit in just right, but it’s easily figured out. To clear the drain, it’s a little difficult because the tube makes a nearly right angle just below the drain hole. I was not able to clear the clog by pushing anything down the hole because it just hit the right angle turn. I found that I had to pull the refrigerator out, identify the tube by reaching in the back of the refrigerator toward the bottom, pull the tube straight, and then jam wire up through the tube to clear the clog. You can also buy a tube replacement but replacing the tube requires getting into the back of the refrigerator also, so both are about the same level of work.