GX2FHDXVB07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Replaced the rail and slide baskets. Also readjusted the basket. This was extremely easy and saved me close to $500

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. Had to remove the freezer door and bottom shelve to make access to the ice maker possible.. Removed the old ice maker using a 1/4" nutdriver to loosen, but not remove, the top 2 screws. Removed the bottom support screw completely.. Detached the wiring harness from the freezer connector and lifted the ice maker up and out of the freezer. Installed the replacement ice maker in reverse order, slipping it over the loosened top screws. Tightened them, making sure the usit was level, then inserted and tightened the bottom support screw . Plugged the wiring harness into the freezer connector.. Unit produced ice within 3 hrs. .

took about 15 min just took off gasket with flat screwdriver cleaned and put it on no glue it has magnets very easy

The part arrived as expected. I detached the existing mullion rail using a socket wrench and disconnected the wires, which was as easy as pulling two pieces apart. Then I connected the wires to the new rail, slid the part into place and used the socket wrench to secure it. As easy as could be and good as new! In total, it took a matter of minutes.

Heated new gasket in dryer. Removed old gasket. Took less than five minutes per door and I am 78 years old!

Removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the groove and installed the new gasket using my fingers to push the gasket into place.

Took out the bottom drawer, removed one hexhead nut on the unit, unplugged the unit, plugged in the replacement unit, screwed in the hexhead screw, replaced the drawer, that's it! Very user friendly.

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Loosen the top 2 screws, remove the bottom screw, unplug the wire harness, lift up the ice maker and remove. To install the new one simply reverse the removal procedure.
Note: You may want to wipe the inside of the new one to remove the protective grease or discard the first 2 cycles of ice.