ED5KVEXVQ07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

pull the fridge out away from the wall and hope you have a long flex water supply hose.remove cardboard cover,oh yea unplug fridge first.unplug wire from the relay.flip the wire retainer off the relay and pry it away from the compressor.pull the 2 prong capacitor off and then reverse the steps to reasemble. skip the middle man at the local appliance shop.i waited 2 weeks for him to get the part and gave up.your reg shipping got it here in 2 days.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Easy as pie, I followed the directions on the box that the replacement filter came in, and installed it and the cap simply and easily.

Review the video on parts select. Do this first!

The actual repair took less than 30 minutes, including pulling out the refrigerator, performing the repair, and replacing the refrigerator.

Remove the screws holding the cardboard backing to the bottom rear of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the pump in place. Remove the electrical connectors and the water hoses from the pump. I needed the wrench to disconnect and reconnect the main inlet hose. Hook everything back up (the sizes of hoses and connectors are different). Replace the cardboard backing. Done!!

I would use Parts Direct again.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

Mine is a simple tale of the missing ice cube dispensor guide. When we moved, the guide was missing so when I built our new home with a kitchen in the basement I wanted to hook up the ice dispensor but when I did, the ice cubes always fell off to one side. I decided to order the misssing part on-line. I ordered it paid for it and then received it the next day-wonderful. Within ten minutes, I was ready to go. Thanks for great service. Rick Davis, Bloomington, IL.

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

After removing a few screws to get to the drum my husband had it back to working like a charm.This part seems to be better made than the original part in the refrigerator.

Just removed old bins and replaced with new ones..so easy, a cave man could do it =)

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.