GI6FDRXXY06 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed and disassembled the broken frame. I cut a six inch piece of coat hanger and folded in half and crimped together. Then I took pliers and made a hook that I hooked into the metal strip in the back of the refrigerator that holds the upper shelves. After replacing the frame, center rail and glass I bent the wire up under the back of the frame to provide a support. The back of the frame is weak and has no center support.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

The ice selector solenoid was a snap to replace.
You do have to pull the ice maker out. I looked on you tube to find out how to take off the wire cover and how to release the ice maker so it will slide out.
Firmly grab it and pull try to keep it level while pulling and it will slide out better.
After removed its 2 small screws and a release clamp to get the old part off and snap the new one in replace screws and wires.
The toughest part of this was figuring out that it was the solenoid in the first place.
Best of luck do it yourselfers like me.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Replaced water/ice maker inlet valve from video instructions from Just Answer. The inlet tube for the water dispenser would not cede in the valve and this created a leak problem from the water dispenser connection. Called repair tech and he could not get the line to cede correctly in the inlet valve. Am going to request a replacement part. This has been very frustrating!

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I ordered the wrong part for my refrigerator. The refund processed easily. However, the email that I was promised with return instructions has not been sent. I have asked several times about how to return this part and total silence from partselect. I'm ready to throw this replacement bin in the trash.

It was easier than I had anticipated. Just had to make sure that I was very careful in removing the old part so I did not break any of the good plastic that I needed in order to install the plastic temperature control to the new part.

I removed and replaced the right pantry end cap, as well as the drawer lid.

Prior to ordering I removed freezer panel and checked for ice build up and fan functionality. Then removed rear panel cleaned lint from everything pulled front panel vacuumed out the condenser. Plugged back in and all seems to work with the exception of compressor. I have a little experience so googled in model number and your site popped up. I looked up part and the site gave me a percentage loved that. I ordered wish I would have rushed shipping as took about 10 days. Installed in less than 30 minutes and all runs great ??

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Removed the top glass above the vegetable drawers and slipped the center rail in place. And I would like to add that I would do business with this site again!

Removed old shelf and installed new shelf. No tools required