WRT111SFAB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Added ice maker to our frige as i have never done one so i called a friend and he came over once we figured it out took less than 1/2 hour to install and run water line only thing instructions could have been a lettle clearer to under stand plus i called sears and they wanted 160.00 dollars for just the icemker this did not include the shut off arm or the bucket to catch the ice and there was no screws to attach it to the inside of the freezer you guys saved me $70.00 if not more and got more for my dollar thank you very much over all pretty simple check parts select before going to like sears or any place like them much cheaper here thanks

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

I cut the plugs off and bought male and female wire conectors and crimped them on the wires and pluged them together.

I completed the ice maker installation but the bracket the automatic water valve was attached to in no way would fit my Whirlpool fridge. The one showed in instructions sent with the ice maker was different than the one Partselect sent me. I had to grind both sides of the bracket off and just hot glued it to the spot where it was supposed to go. I can see how this could be a real issue for some.

Installation went smooth - only three hex-head screws (one below unit and two above. After removing 3 screws, unit comes loose in your hand but is still connected by a plug leading 4 wires to a connector visible through a slot in back panel of freezer compartment. New unit goes in easily (making sure spout from pump that protrudes from back wall fits through opening on icemaker) but there's not a generous amout of wiring harness and the 'female' of the electrical connection is recessed and loose inside a cutout in the rear panel so you can't get a good grip on it nor can you feel if it plugs securely. I plugged new unit into connector and then secured it with the 3 screws, waited the 12 hours per instructions, but no ice. Removed unit and guessed that the plug had not seated fully (not plugged in.) I took a short piece of a wooden paint stirrer and put it on back edge of plug and tapped it into place so it seated fully. Immediately, the pump cycled and water came from the filler spout, so I surmised that it was now properly plugged in - it began making ice in a couple of hours and has operated perfectly ever since. Lesson learned is to make sure you get the electrical connector fully in place - mine did not 'snap' or 'click' into place and I wrongly assumed it was plugged in correctly.

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

replaced old one installed new one

My husband tackled the job....but before this repair he had to replace ours at home so he had some experience at it....although...on this fridge he had to hook up the water line and all...but basically was not too hard...and the ordering of the part and delivery was excellent...

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

Unplugged refrigerator. Unplugged ice maker and took out three screws holding ice maker. Put new ice maker and attached three screws. Plugged ice maker in. Plugged refrigerator in and ice maker began working. Threw out first ice cubes made. Unit now working fine.

Per instructions

It was so easy. This is the second Ice maker we have put in this fridge. Thank you very much.