WRT111SFAB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

Turn off power to the frig. Remove the shelves and back brackets from the freezer, then with a 1/4" nut driver remove the nuts holding the rear metal panel in place. Once removed the defrost thermostat is right in front of you. You will have to clip the wires from the old t-stat because they are in a harness. Once clipped, strip the wires back, wire in the new t-stat, add wire nuts and put it all back together. Very easy job to do, works great. Thanks Parts Select, Mike.

The fridge was prepped for an ice maker but was never installed. After much aggravation of people not filling the ice trays I gave up and installed the ice maker. This is probably the hottest summer on record, and we were going thru a lot of ice. Lost a little real estate in the freezer by the ice maker but it was well worth it. Now I know I have fresh ice for cocktails in the evening!Install was fast and easy. A little longer than usual because I had to run the water line as well.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

I cut the plugs off and bought male and female wire conectors and crimped them on the wires and pluged them together.

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

My husband tackled the job....but before this repair he had to replace ours at home so he had some experience at it....although...on this fridge he had to hook up the water line and all...but basically was not too hard...and the ordering of the part and delivery was excellent...

Installation went smooth - only three hex-head screws (one below unit and two above. After removing 3 screws, unit comes loose in your hand but is still connected by a plug leading 4 wires to a connector visible through a slot in back panel of freezer compartment. New unit goes in easily (making sure spout from pump that protrudes from back wall fits through opening on icemaker) but there's not a generous amout of wiring harness and the 'female' of the electrical connection is recessed and loose inside a cutout in the rear panel so you can't get a good grip on it nor can you feel if it plugs securely. I plugged new unit into connector and then secured it with the 3 screws, waited the 12 hours per instructions, but no ice. Removed unit and guessed that the plug had not seated fully (not plugged in.) I took a short piece of a wooden paint stirrer and put it on back edge of plug and tapped it into place so it seated fully. Immediately, the pump cycled and water came from the filler spout, so I surmised that it was now properly plugged in - it began making ice in a couple of hours and has operated perfectly ever since. Lesson learned is to make sure you get the electrical connector fully in place - mine did not 'snap' or 'click' into place and I wrongly assumed it was plugged in correctly.

I completed the ice maker installation but the bracket the automatic water valve was attached to in no way would fit my Whirlpool fridge. The one showed in instructions sent with the ice maker was different than the one Partselect sent me. I had to grind both sides of the bracket off and just hot glued it to the spot where it was supposed to go. I can see how this could be a real issue for some.

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

replaced old one installed new one

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.