GZ25FSRXYY4 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Watched you tube video,.....followed,....went very well.....picked the right wiring harness,.....no problems.......making ice in 1 hour

Replaced motor it was not issue. Now I am stuck with a $300 motor I cannot return. When I say will not dispense ice everyone thinks it does not make ice. Auger does not turn to push ice out the door. Reason I thought it was auger motor when you push lever on door the auger turns about one eight of a turn. So, it would seem it is getting signal and power. Cannot find any articles on this specific issue. If anyone has a suggestion, please share.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Replaced the solenoid that feeds the icemaker. Easy fix remove the trays on the right and remove rear panels on the inside of the refrigerator. Pop the inlet solenoid replace it. Be sure to shut power and water OFF.

following the video instructions on the website, I was able to remove the bad reservoir in line and install the new reservoir and line ordered through parts select. thank you for your delivery service, and instructions.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Turn ice maker off
Remove ice tray
Remove side panel cover
Unplug ice machine
Slide ice machine out remove bottom section
Install new ice machine

Very good instruction videos on you tube.

Took the old one off put the new part on. Took 1/2 hour

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Unsnapped and pulled off small cover exsposing two phillips head screws. I removed larger cover and styrofoam insert fully exsposing the damper unit. i unplugged same and with a 1/2 inch wood chisel was able to release the "snaps" holding the old unit in place. Simply reverse procedure to install new unit.