WRT1L1TZYB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Using a screwdriver

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

After describing my problem PartSelect consultant emmidiately diagnost the problem and I ordered Evaporator Fan Motor. Along with purches order confirmation I got video how to install a new motor.
The hardest part was to connectthe ground wire becase space in that area was verylimited. Otherwise it was just like a walk in the park.
As soon as I installed motor and turned on the refrigirator, everything start working properly.
Thank you PartSelect, you sved me hundreds of dollars.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

Remove food from freezer shelf and ice maker back panel4 screws remove old motor replace with new motor reinstall all removed parts. Plug in and fan instantly came on refrigerator working great since

Removal of the door gasket went quite fast. First i needed a 8mm wrench. That what I didn't have. Got the socket set, not the wrench. Tried adjustable wrench, went slow. I slowly got the bolts out. Putting the gasket on was slow. Then I get to the last corner, was awful for me. I finally get it on. Putting the freezer door back on 1st went crazy. I finally looked on top of refrigerator, saw (3) bolts, removed them, installment went easy from there.

Remove screws on the rear wall of the freezer. Pull the rear wall out and this gives you access to the evaporator fan assembley. Remove wires to the fan and to the defrost element to be able to move the rear wall to a position where you can work on the evaporator fan motor. The fan motor is held into place by a plastic bracket that clips onto the reverse side of the freezer rear wall. Careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the fan in place as they are brittle. The fan blade friction fits on to the fan motor shaft and is a little difficult to remove. Assemble in reverse order.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.