WRT779RFYM10 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Inserted scraper behind gasket breaking it free from door, permitting a hand hold. While putting tension on gasket, slid scraper around door gently removing old gasket. Replaced gasket starting at top gradually working around door. No need to remove door.

Remove food from freezer shelf and ice maker back panel4 screws remove old motor replace with new motor reinstall all removed parts. Plug in and fan instantly came on refrigerator working great since

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I suspected the frig thermistor so I cut wires to the original. The new part was not a direct replacement, but was adaptable. I’m not sure the frig design would allow for an OEM replacement anyway. I clipped off the useless connector on the new thermistor and spliced the thermistor in by soldering wires appropriately. That was a bit difficult due to the short available length of the wires, and it didn’t solve the problem. Since it seemed like the damper responded normally to power-off resets and diagnostics using the onboard control buttons, I decided the main control board pretty much had to be the culprit. It was. Replacing the board was a piece of cake. Only a 1/4” nutdriver required, plus maybe a small screwdriver for prying here or there. Happy to have the frig working again.

Removed the old gasket and ran the hard edged lip into the opening behind the door liner. Concerned that the gasket does not seem to be attaching itself to the door well. First put it on the side of the refigerator and it would not adhere enough to support itself. While it closes it just doesn't seem to attach with the magnets in the gasket. These magnetic strips have a weak magnet side and a strong magnet side. I wonder if they put the wrong side facing the door when they assembled it. Counter this with a new gasket for an upright freezer which was twice the length and attached itself firmly to the side wall of the freezer and did not slide down.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Remove screws on the rear wall of the freezer. Pull the rear wall out and this gives you access to the evaporator fan assembley. Remove wires to the fan and to the defrost element to be able to move the rear wall to a position where you can work on the evaporator fan motor. The fan motor is held into place by a plastic bracket that clips onto the reverse side of the freezer rear wall. Careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the fan in place as they are brittle. The fan blade friction fits on to the fan motor shaft and is a little difficult to remove. Assemble in reverse order.

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

After describing my problem PartSelect consultant emmidiately diagnost the problem and I ordered Evaporator Fan Motor. Along with purches order confirmation I got video how to install a new motor.
The hardest part was to connectthe ground wire becase space in that area was verylimited. Otherwise it was just like a walk in the park.
As soon as I installed motor and turned on the refrigirator, everything start working properly.
Thank you PartSelect, you sved me hundreds of dollars.

I followed the instructions on the video you provided with my order. Removed the freezer door and used the putty knife to loosen the old gasket and installed the new one. I'm a 77 year old female and if I can do it, so can you.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Once I figured it out. It was very easy. May not be right, don't know, but it works

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.