WRF560SFYM00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Unscrewed the mullion, lift to remove. Unplug the little electrical connector. Putting the new one on was just a little tricky, getting it to hook on, but not a big deal. Works as good as new now.

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

After describing my problem PartSelect consultant emmidiately diagnost the problem and I ordered Evaporator Fan Motor. Along with purches order confirmation I got video how to install a new motor.
The hardest part was to connectthe ground wire becase space in that area was verylimited. Otherwise it was just like a walk in the park.
As soon as I installed motor and turned on the refrigirator, everything start working properly.
Thank you PartSelect, you sved me hundreds of dollars.

Remove screws on the rear wall of the freezer. Pull the rear wall out and this gives you access to the evaporator fan assembley. Remove wires to the fan and to the defrost element to be able to move the rear wall to a position where you can work on the evaporator fan motor. The fan motor is held into place by a plastic bracket that clips onto the reverse side of the freezer rear wall. Careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the fan in place as they are brittle. The fan blade friction fits on to the fan motor shaft and is a little difficult to remove. Assemble in reverse order.

Called my handyman in after myself and my son went thru the whole thing with cleaning gaskets, etc, ordered part I thought I needed. After speaking with your person on the phone, he took out my veg drawers and the shelf that held them, then reinstalled the shelf and the door closed tight! Apparently the last time I took it apart to clean it, I didn't put shelf back correctly and that started my problem. However, your people were very nice and as helpful as they could be in the situation. It never was my door cam or cam door after all. Boy, is my face red!

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I suspected the frig thermistor so I cut wires to the original. The new part was not a direct replacement, but was adaptable. I’m not sure the frig design would allow for an OEM replacement anyway. I clipped off the useless connector on the new thermistor and spliced the thermistor in by soldering wires appropriately. That was a bit difficult due to the short available length of the wires, and it didn’t solve the problem. Since it seemed like the damper responded normally to power-off resets and diagnostics using the onboard control buttons, I decided the main control board pretty much had to be the culprit. It was. Replacing the board was a piece of cake. Only a 1/4” nutdriver required, plus maybe a small screwdriver for prying here or there. Happy to have the frig working again.

Remove food from freezer shelf and ice maker back panel4 screws remove old motor replace with new motor reinstall all removed parts. Plug in and fan instantly came on refrigerator working great since

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

THE REPAIR WENT SMOOTH BECAUSE INSTRUCTIONS WHERE CLEAR.. I WOULD NEVER HAD THOUGHT THE WEATHERSTRIP WENT ON THE WAY IT DID.

Once I figured it out. It was very easy. May not be right, don't know, but it works

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!