WRF560SEYB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Easy

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

Removed the door, removed the tray, removed the back bar(slipped the female cover off 1 side), removed the left slide, installed the new slide, installed the back bar, slipped in the drawer, popped the anchor back in the door with glue, installed the door and POW, it's done.

Had a hard time getting the refridgerator part of the filter to LET GO. The grooves weren't lined up with the areas meant to pinch. A knife on each side got it to release.
Thanks.
Have a good one.

Removed 2 screws holding cover (one on left; one behind air filter on rear wall), removed cover, removed styrofoam duct, unplugged and removed old damper. The styrofoam duct broke slightly during the removal process. This was easily fixed with some 3M spray adhesive. While the adhesive dried, I packed the air passage between the fridge & freezer with paper towels to help the fridge cycle a bit (this worked surprisingly well). After finally installing the new damper and repaired styrofoam duct, the fridge went right back to freezing the food again (I soon realized this was caused by a VERY SMALL air leak where the new damper mates with the flange located on the freezer). After making a gasket with some self adhesive1/8" thick weatherstripping and applying it to the damper, things are back to normal operation.

First, made sure new fan worked then Placed back in bracket with bushings-only goes in one way, pushed fan back on. screwed bracket to back of freezer and ran the wires to their original place, plugged in the two plugs, put the back piece up attaching ground and pulling ice maker plug thru, screwed back on. Plugged in ice maker, mounted ice maker on freezer wall. Plugged it in. Exact reversal of how it was removed. Not a lot parts to get confused.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

Removed brokent tube fitting from the compression nut.
Removed two screws holding the fill tube. Removed and replaced the fill tube. Direct replacement, no cutting tube length. Reconnect water line to the new fill tube.......Done.