W8FRNGFVD01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

After ordering the ice-maker, but before it had arrived, I installed a valve in the pex water line in the room right below the fridge. I had to rent a pex clamp kit from Home Depot. It cost $8 for 4 hours and came with the crimpers and band cutters. I then ran a poly line to an in-line filter which I mounted to an exposed stud and fished the line up the wall and out a small hole I drilled behind the fridge. When the ice-maker came, it took less than 30 minutes to install and start my first batch of ice. With the in-line filter, the ice forms with practically no sediment flakes. Part Select was the only place I could find a replacement ice-maker. In addition to the parts in the ice-maker kit, I had to buy 12 feet of poly water line, a ball-valve, the in-line filter and a compression fitting. A total of $20 at my plumbing contractor store.

The icemaker came with very easy to understand instructions the installation took less than 45 min. that included installing the selinoid valve and waterline I had a nearby waterpipe, the acual icemaker took about 5 min. to install it in the freezer.

Rather than pay a repairman an assessment fee, then the cost of the repair to the existing icemaker, I decided to replace the icemaker for a lot less. The Add On Icemaker kit came with installation instructions. The kit included the ice maker, as well as the hose and water feed control on the back. Originally, I was nervous about attempting to replace the icemaker. I watched a video on YouTube about replacing an icemaker and saw how easy it could be. Following the enclosed directions, and Wow!, it was extremely easy to remove and add the new icemaker. Don't pay to have someone else do it! This is a no-brainer.

We had a refrigerator that had no ice maker at all, but it had the wiring behind the freezer panel and the wiring for the solenoid valve at the bottom of the refrigerator. The installation went easy for me, but I do not think the average homeowner could handle it. There are always little variations from model to model so some of the diagrams were not quite the same as my unit. But all the necessary parts and hardware were there and the install went fine. its crabnking out perfect ice like crazy.

unplug freg.took everything out.pulled out shelves and pulled out back panel.their was my part i had to replace.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Added ice maker to our frige as i have never done one so i called a friend and he came over once we figured it out took less than 1/2 hour to install and run water line only thing instructions could have been a lettle clearer to under stand plus i called sears and they wanted 160.00 dollars for just the icemker this did not include the shut off arm or the bucket to catch the ice and there was no screws to attach it to the inside of the freezer you guys saved me $70.00 if not more and got more for my dollar thank you very much over all pretty simple check parts select before going to like sears or any place like them much cheaper here thanks

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed/replaced ice maker and valve per enclosed instructions. If you can service your own lawn mower this R&R should be easy for you.

Unplugged refrigerator. Unplugged ice maker and took out three screws holding ice maker. Put new ice maker and attached three screws. Plugged ice maker in. Plugged refrigerator in and ice maker began working. Threw out first ice cubes made. Unit now working fine.

Fit in the glass