GX5FHDXVB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Based on other feedback, it sounded like a bad valve. I ordered it from Part Select and received it the next day. I am in NO WAY handy, but it took about 5 min to change using the instructions. Not bad considering I spent $33 on the part and I was quoted $280 by the authorized repair center.

These guys had my part mailed in lighting fast! It arrived in 2 days in a padded box in perfect shape.The price was the best on line and they saved my life one day before thansgiving!! They got my vote and respect! Great job partselect!!! walt , crete illinois

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt.
Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.

Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.

Watched installation Video on the website parts. I put the new gaskets in bath tube in warm water for a few minuets until the gaskets were warm and pliable. I removed old gaskets cleaned door facing and installed new gaskets as instructed on video. Thanks for the information on how to install because I was dreading trying to do this task. "Just follow and listen to the instruction on Video".

Pulled out on gasket seal at top right corner of door and when loose pealed the seal out around door. Installed gasket by inserting channel insert into door groove and pressed gasket in while lightly pulling down to stretch seal out to facilitate inserting gasket lip into door channel. Bada bing! Done. Good fit. Note: I laid out gasket in the sun to soften it up as there were some small wrinkles in material from being folded for shipping. Hair dryer would work too!

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Remove the existing mullion rail:

- Remove the screw from the center hinged cover.
- Remove the mullion rail by pushing upward. The top and bottom hinges slide over tabs attached to the door. I had to bump it gently from underneath.
- Disconnect the three wire connector that's underneath the center hinged cover.

Install the new mullion rail by reversing the above steps:
- Connect the three wire connector and snap it into its holder.
- Slide the new part over the top and bottom hinges. Be sure that all three hinges are correctly lined up before sliding the rail over the tabs.
- Push it down far enough that the hole for the screw in the center cover is lined up with its corresponding receptacle in the door.
- Replace the screw.

Removed the middle screw and the whole rail came of. Unplugged wires and removed old rail. Plugged in the new rail and slid top and bottom slides on and put on the middle screw. Job finished

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed