GSF26C5EXB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

Put on new door bin.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I was amazed when Fed Ex pulled up to our front door the following day after I ordered the parts, I was wondering what they were delivering and to my amazement it was the parts I had ordered from parts select the previous day , thank you so much , you are awesome. My 73 year old husband who is a 5 year cancer survivor had the part installed and we were ready to start making ice within 1 hour.He went by the installation information sent in by your customers. Thank you all, Jo Mesplay

Got new part. Removed cover. Tape at top had to be pried loose from door.

Had to turn cup cover from top portion to access power wire. Door and light wires had to be unplugged and moved from clips.

Two screws at bottom removed. Motor unit was freed up and set on table.

Had to remove bottom white section due to light Assembly was not on new section. Removed three screws. Removed three screws from new unit.

Attached old white section with light to new motor unit.

Reattached power wire routed into cup and plugged in. Cup turned clockwise so as to attach.Other wires re-routed and plugged back in.

Cover section screws inserted and reattached.

Turned on/off button back on. Checked all light switches in refrigerator and freezer section to ensure operating. Put bin back in and closed door. No warning lights present. Approximately one hour later, bin had ice in it.

Simply remove the small screw frome the bottom of the bucket, slide the coupling onto the screw shaft, and retighten the screw.

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.

Philips screwdriver
Removed screw (1)
Removed light bulb
Put in new light bulb
Closed door to bulb compartment
Returned screw.

Pro tip! Check how many bulbs you need before ordering. Mine only needed two. I got two. I suspect I’ll buy a new microwave before new bulb burns out again. Ordering/delivery was fast. No need to have spare on hand.

Like you video

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Took the old one out and put the new one in

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

just followed the instruction on utube

with vidio