GSF26C4EXT02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

change light bulbs

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

I replaced the water inlet valve. This was a easy except for the place the valve was located. I removed the back panel cover after unplugging the refrigerator, shut off the water feed line to the refrigerator. After some cleaning with a vacuum cleaner, to remove build up dust and lint, I was able to reach in and pull the valve loose from the mounting bracket. I removed the electrical plugs from the valve and all three water lines. One that was completed, I was able to remove the valve from it's location. Replacing the valve, was easy enough, as I just attached the water line hoses back into the mounting location and plugged in the electrical plugs, then placed the valve back onto the mounting bracket. I then turned the water feed line back on and checked for leaks. Once I was able to make sure there were no water leaks, I replaced the back panel cover and plugged the refrigerator back it to the power plugin. The valve immediately began working, supplying water to the icemaker.

I removed the filter from the box I took the old filter out and inserted the new air filter put the cover down and that was it.

Took it out of the box. Emptied the ice out of the broken bin. Slid the new one in and all done.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

pulled the top shelf and poped open the door and replaced the filter

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!